The shape of Guadeloupe looks like a butterfly.After our fast crossing from Antigua, we touched the left wing in a small town, called Deshaies.I still don’t know how to pronounce it, but we spent two nights there to get some rest.
The island is divided in two halves by a river, wide enough to take Irie across.This area contains a lot of mangroves and is therefore known as a decent hurricane hole.Upon arrival in Guadeloupe, we had big plans to run around to the north side, motor the short cut to the south side and do lots of exploring inland.That was before we actually realized that it was almost August, the height of hurricane season…
Deshaies is a small fishing village that reminded us of the towns in the Dominican Republic.Nothing special was happening, a variety of food was hard to find and the little community just did its thing.There was no good beach, but the hilly surroundings were very green and we discovered that the path along the river was very enjoyable.We walked Darwin there in the morning, while the jungle around us made the air moist and the mango trees dropped their fruits in massive quantities.
We altered our plans a bit and decided to follow the west coast.We would do the other things on our way back north.Our next stop was PigeonIsland, where we picked up a free mooring ball to go snorkeling.This area of actually two island is also called the JacquesCousteauUnderwaterPark, because he declared it to be one of the top dive sites in the world.It was pretty rolly this far away from shore, so we didn’t waste much time and jumped in the water before I could get sea sick.Once in the company of coral and tropical fish, we executed our grand plan of circling the biggest island.Talking about a work out!It took us a little while, but at least we now know where the best snorkeling is to be found around these rocks.
Since the anchorage on the mainland, across from PigeonIsland, is more comfortable, we opted to spend the night there, near MalendureBeach.Now this place is very popular with locals and white people alike and we have no idea why…The sand is black and littered, a mucky river empties out on it, the seawater is grey and it is very busy.In the morning, we wanted to go for a sign posted hike, but ended up in a housing development and gave up.
It was Sunday and we needed some provisions.Our idea was to anchor off the marina in Basse-Terre, Guadeloupe’s capital, before noon to catch the store before closing.The sail down there was a bit tough, since the wind died down over and over again, just like on our trip to PigeonIsland.Only then, the wind shifted so much that we were actually sailing back north at one point!Now, at least we kept moving towards our destination, albeit very slowly.
We dropped anchor in a bumpy harbor just after 12 pm and realized it wouldn’t be comfortable enough to spend the night.Down went the dinghy and all of us fought the beating heat to make it to shore.I had a half hour left to “stock up”.I only needed five minutes, since the store didn’t have anything interesting or healthy.A stop by the bakery revealed that they were out of bread.So, we got back to Irie, hauled the dinghy and the anchor back up and left.At least Darwin had a little break and swim on shore.
The only other place we could go before dark was the Saintes, a group of islands south of Guadeloupe and an area well raved about.We looked forward to a short visit here.It was only 10 miles away and we could see them luring us over, but… the wind came exactly on the nose and under ten knots, while a few squalls passed nearby.Since we now are hardy sailors, we needed to prove a point and sailed all the way, avoiding a water spout in the distance.It “only” took us four hours and we did more than twice the distance to get to Bourg de Saintes, the main town on the islands.
Terre-de-Haut is the most populated, popular and interesting island of the bunch.The three of us spent a few days there and enjoyed the cute, clean, colorful town with its welcoming and friendly village atmosphere.We also walked to a couple of other bays and lost gallons of sweat.The Caribbean in the summer: it is hot and humid!
Our last evening in the Saintes was spent in a harbor on Terre-de-Bas.A walk on shore revealed a very neat, organized and friendly community with well-kept parks, lots of hiking opportunities and child friendly areas.When we get back…But now, the weather was quite favorable to make the crossing to Dominica.
For (aspiring) cruisers, arm chair cruisers or people interested in sailing:
Read my other blog about the Caribbean sailing life here
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For many more pictures about our past and present adventures, check out our photo website here.
Irie is a Fountaine Pajot Tobago, a 35 foot catamaran with a beam of about 19 feet. She was born in France in 1998, and spent her childhood in the Caribbean, before arriving in Maryland, USA.
Irie used to be called Big Trouble, when she belonged to her previous owner. This guy neglected her and she sat idle for almost five years. She also didn't like her name, which we experienced the minute she became ours. From the moment we cut her old name in half, by removing the first part, she behaved a little bit nicer, but it wasn't until the "Trouble" left the transom that our problems started to disappear.
When she received her new name, she became a happy girl again, feeling healthy and almost as good as new. Just like everybody else she has her own problems and we keep working on that never ending list. Even though she is a hand full sometimes, we are very happy with her and wouldn't want to trade for anything else. For over three years now, she performed as our house, transportation device and office!
"Irie" means "All good/All right" in Jamaican (Creole). "Irie, mon!" We hope our lives will be Irie, and yours too.
It's Liesbet
Liesbet is originally from Belgium and still speaks English with a little bit of an accent. Her name is pronounced "Leezbett", but since a lot of people don't really get that, they call her all kinds of things. Americans like their abbreviations, so it's way easier to just call her Lb (also meaning lazy butt).
Her biggest passion is traveling, and... trying new things. That's how she ended up with Mark, and on this boat. She's pretty flexible, adventurous and easy-going; a must for her kind of life. Some people call her "crazy", but let's just stick with "different".
She adores Kali and Darwin, and actually likes all animals, except mosquitoes, the only living creatures she purposefully kills. There's not much that she really hates, other than rudeness, cruelty, hypocrisy, and helplessness. Oh, and sometimes Mark's single-focusness.
She's all excited about seeing new places from another perspective (the water), writing about it and hanging out with dolphins, and other wildlife. Although, she does miss living in a camper, but that's part of her laziness.
Living on a tight budget has been her lifetime commitment in order to travel for a lifetime. To create that budget, she performs as a freelance writer, translator Dutch-English, proofreader, The Wirie partner and -if really really really needed- manual laborer.
It's Mark
Mark is 40 and was born in Connecticut, but grew up in upstate New York. He lived in Massachusetts, before moving to California, his favorite state. After living "the American dream" for ten years, he decided that wasn't his thing. Becoming a wise, and adventurous man over the last couple of years, he gained a lot of travel experiences and great insights.
He hates ignorance, traffic, bad customer service and Johnnies*. The things he loves are being single-focused and dealing with The Wirie, a marine WiFi system/business we created in April 2009 . Both "occupations" can last forever... He also likes hiking, listening to good music, and just chilling. His biggest passion is sailing, and that's what he is doing right now. During this exciting trip in the Caribbean, he is accompanied by his two beloved crew members Darwin and Liesbet.
Just so he would never have a spare moment of time anymore, he came up with a great idea to provide WiFi on boats. With the help of Liesbet, he invented and developed The Wirie, now a full blown business and time commitment.
*A Johnny is a macho wannabe, revving his engine, and trying to attract attention with a modified car and/or loud music. If this person is Latino, Johnny is pronounced in Spanish [Chonny].
It's Darwin
Darwin is an Australian Shepherd mix, with a pretty tail, and handsome face. He's almost ten years old, but behaves like he's two. This "pup" is still very playful, a little dumb sometimes (in a doggie way), but knows darn well how to steal your heart. He can be so funny, rolling over in the grass, being eager to do tricks, making funny noises and looking very innocent. He has a way of getting comfortable wherever he lays down, ideally resting his head on one thing or another, from somebody's lap to the table.
Darwin hates to get his toes wet, especially after it rained on the grass. He also doesn't like to be rinsed off, have his nails clipped or get a brushing.
He loved to annoy his sister Kali, nipping her or grabbing her leg to get her to play. Or sometimes just chewing on her. He likes being chased by other dogs, retrieving toys from the air, water, and floor, digging holes in the sand, swimming, hipping you with his wet butt, licking good smelling air, eating treats, and wagging his tail. But, most of all he loves to be with us, whatever we do or wherever we are. He's a happy boy!
On December 1st, 2010, not even two years after we lost Kali, disaster struck again in our small, but happy family. Darwin was diagnosed with malignant tumors in the US and died two days later. We were just going to pick up our life on Irie in the Caribbean again after a three month break. A boat and life without dogs. We cannot grasp or belief it. Our hearts ache because of this tremendous loss. For the story about Darwin's last days, read the blog "Darwin: Our Bestest Boy"of December 2010 (http://www.itsirie.com/2010/12/darwin-our-bestest-boy.html). We miss him so incredibly much!
It's Kali
Our special girl was also an Australian Shepherd mix, with a fluffy tail. We think she was part Collie with her pretty tall and white fur with brown spots. Her face was very cute. She survived an awful disease as a puppy, and used that strength through her whole life. She still appeased Darwin once in a while by giving him some playtime.
Kali was obsessed with balls, sometimes a little too much. She loved human food, but was not allowed to have any. Except on her birthday, when a deliciously cooked steak awaited her. She liked to sniff and stroll around, doing her thing, knowing that we were around. Rolling around in the grass was one of her favorite things, but what she liked the most was being in the water. She could literally wake in it for hours, wagging her tail, pawing rocks or digging for imaginary things, occasionally sticking her whole face under the water surface, and telling us how much she liked doing this. She was terrified of thunderstorms and fireworks, or everything producing a loud boom. She also didn't like fake grass.
Kali and her unrelated "brother" Darwin are well-traveled puppies, and of all the Central American countries, they liked Mexico , Belize, and Costa Rica the best. Why? There are lots of beaches, calm water, and no leash law! Since cruising on Irie, they loved the Bahamas the most.
Disaster struck in our happy family, just when we were ready to explore and have fun in the "real Caribbean". Kali died in Fajardo, Puerto Rico, on December 26th, 2008. To understand what happened, read the blog "Goodbye, Sweet Girl" of January 2009 (http://www.itsirie.com/2009/01/goodbye-sweet-girl.html). We all miss her very very much and think about our special girl every day.
The island is divided in two halves by a river, wide enough to take Irie across. This area contains a lot of mangroves and is therefore known as a decent hurricane hole. Upon arrival in 
Deshaies is a small fishing village that reminded us of the towns in the 
Since the anchorage on the mainland, across from 
The only other place we could go before dark was the Saintes, a group of islands south of 
Terre-de-Haut is the most populated, popular and interesting island of the bunch. The three of us spent a few days there and enjoyed the cute, clean, colorful town with its welcoming and friendly village atmosphere. We also walked to a couple of other bays and lost gallons of sweat. The 
Our last evening in the Saintes was spent in a harbor on Terre-de-Bas. A walk on shore revealed a very neat, organized and friendly community with well-kept parks, lots of hiking opportunities and child friendly areas. When we get back… But now, the weather was quite favorable to make the crossing to 
1 comments:
nice.. and i'm seeing the full post in Google Reader now. Thx!
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