Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Busy Days on Irie


After three and a half months of living on land and accumulating a lot of “goodies” to bring back with us to Tahiti, Mark and I were a bit anxious about returning home to Irie. With four bulging checked bags and three carry-ons, we kept wondering how we would manage to take everything back, on the plane, into French Polynesia, towards the marina and over water to our boat on a mooring ball. And, how would we adjust to the challenging boat life again after all that had happened? All in all, the trips went pretty smooth, except for a small glitch in LA, which had nothing to do with our luggage, but everything with poorly defined computer screens and infrastructure.

Our plane landed in Faa’a (Pape’ete) at 5am, customs was no issue (we didn’t stand out with our cart piled high), we arrived by taxi van at marina Taina at 6am, where a friendly cruiser – Bonnie from SV Romany Star – picked us up a half hour later, and let us use her dinghy to bring all our bags to Irie. At 7am on Friday, August 15th, we were officially back home. Irie was in decent shape for having been in the tropics this long without us, thanks to some of our cruising friends. Her waterline was very filthy, a whole foot up from the water surface, because of the big swell and chop and the scum passing through in this area. Her decks were gross with the city’s particles falling out of the sky. The bimini was ripped in a few places. All to be expected.

Our biggest surprise came when we looked forward of the bow and found only one mooring line attached - running from one bow to the other, highly non-recommended and something experienced cruisers would NEVER do, because of chafe, let alone the fact that Irie was sitting on top of the ball and the line was rubbing underneath the boat taking all our new bottom paint off! – while we had left our floating home secured by two mooring lines in the safest and best positioned way, and a “back-up” line in the middle! None of our friends had anything to do with this set-up, so the mystery remains unsolved… Why would a stranger get on our boat and replace a perfectly safe and well-prepared situation with one that can cause damage and loss of our boat?

But, Irie was safe and sound (and still there!), so we got to work immediately. By 10am all the bags were unpacked and all the contents stored somehow. A short nap followed. In the afternoon, Mark fixed the outboard engine which was seized from laying on its side for so long, still containing salt water. And, we got the little motor – our lifeline to shore - running again. Our old toilet seat was replaced and a broken burner as well. When it was time to cook, another problem arose. The solenoid for our propane stove didn’t work anymore. Luckily, a new one was found easily (we love our spare parts!) and an hour later, we could make dinner. On Saturday, we both jumped into the water early and cleaned the nasty waterline, while the bay was relatively calm. Good idea, because by noon, the usual choppy waves had arrived. The afternoon was spent searching for healthier food options in the Carrefour supermarket and stocking the boat up with groceries. By the end of the weekend, we had paid our hefty mooring fees, bought a few more odds and ends, had both diesel engines running smoothly, and moved anchorages.

Following the advice of our cruising friends Birgit and Christian on SV Pitufa, we motored two hours north, to arrive in the comfortable anchorage of Arue, where we used our new chain for the first time. Happy to be at anchor again and not bounce around anymore, we enjoyed the new surroundings and figured out a way to obtain decent internet (by paying lots of money and having a great WiFi product!), which kept us entertained for the rest of the day. When the sun set at 5:45pm, a local woman onshore kept yelling at us to move. We promised her to do so first thing in the morning, since it was getting dark quickly and we couldn’t see the reefs. But, she did not let up, screaming and urging us to move NOW. So, against better judgment, we upped anchor and plopped ourselves in the middle of other anchored boats, only to have to move again later on, when the wind shifted and we were too close to our neighbors. No surprise there… This was the first time we were approached in such an unfriendly and inhospitable way by a Polynesian resident!

We met up with our friends on Pitufa after many months of having different experiences and adventures, and the chores on Irie continued: scrubbing the decks, cleaning the roof to be able to collect rainwater again, installing a new accumulator tank, changing the oil in both engines, and performing other engine maintenance. We have much more cleaning to do and a new jib (head sail) is waiting for us. It’s good to be back on Irie! :-)

Leaving Boston by plane
 
Approaching Los Angeles

Moorea still beckons in the distance... Soon!

Replacing the solenoid at nightfall to be able to cook dinner

Scrubbing the waterline - the sea was very clear that morning; we saw the bottom in 70ft of water

The new toilet seat (bought in the US) matches the new pump I brought from Belgium earlier this year

Sunset over Moorea

Locals playing around on a home built raft

New Zealand mussels and Tahitian beer - life is good!

Sunday, August 17, 2014

Wrapping Things up in the USA


When Mark and I returned to Newburyport, MA from our “little” road trip to North Carolina, we had less than two weeks to get ourselves and all our luggage ready and prepared for our trip back to Tahiti. And to relax a little bit after the intense “cancer” months and before settling into the boat life again. We shopped some more online and in stores, we watched the fireworks concluding Yankee Homecoming, we helped Mark’s brother Tim move his boat Silhouette downriver, and a week later we went for a great sail on her with Tim’s family. Both times, Mark and I were very happy to be on the water again – we felt Irie’s call! There was a farewell family dinner at Carol and Stan’s place, we spent more time with the adorable twins Cera and Lily, and, unfortunately, we had to say “goodbye” to dog Oliver, who suffered from a rare cancer. He was only five years old and will be missed!

Mark’s mom Carol treated me to my first pedicure, which was an interesting, but relaxing experience and another family reunion consisted of meeting up with Mark’s niece Chelsea in the cute inn and restaurant “Publick House”, a two hour drive away. We also saw our friends Lisa and Scott again for a fun evening in Amesbury. In between, we took advantage of the reliable internet service and the hot, pressurized showers, before we would be without. On our last day in the States, we managed to fill four bags as checked luggage and three pieces of carry-ons! And then, it was time for the long flights back to Tahiti and to come home to Irie!

Fireworks in Newburyport

Merri-Mar Yacht Basin (owned by the helpful and friendly Jay and Deb), from where we moved SV Silhouette

Mark's dad Stan weaving a Nantucket basket

My first ever pedicure (I enjoy trying "everything" at least once)- the color was supposed to be a little bit lighter, though; ooops

Days of hot weather and then all of a sudden... yes, that is hail!

Giving some extra love to sweet Oliver
 
And, to smiley Cera

Lily and Cera with the pearls we brought them from the Gambier Islands in the Pacific - although they are more interested in a pretzel as of now!

Family dinner at Stan and Carol's

Niece Jo and Liesbet

Kristen giving some of her deliciously made blueberry pie to Lily

Feeding baby girl Lily onboard Silhouette

Choppy channel into the ocean

Mark and Jo at the helm

Silhouette under sail - it felt great to be on the water again!

Our nieces Suzy and Jo on the bow

Mark's brother Tim enjoying his boat

Mark, captain of boats and oceans!

Ordering superb pizzas with Scott and Lisa at "Flatbread" in Amesbury

And finishing off the night with a yummy dessert, while I still could!

Liesbet, Mark, Stan, Carol, and Chelsea at the Publick House in Sturbridge, MA

Back home in Tahiti!!!

Monday, August 11, 2014

Mark’s Cancer – What We Learned

Synopsis

In January 2014, Mark fell on a winch on our boat in the Marquesas. His chest hurt way more than expected, but the pain eased after a few days. Then, he felt a bump, which he attributed to the injury of the fall. Two months later while we were in the Tuamotus, the lump was still there, and we started to worry, so we sailed to Tahiti for a check-up. Upon arrival, we immediately rushed to the main hospital in Pape’ete, with subsequent visits. The ultrasound didn’t conclude anything, a biopsy suggested cancer, and in the beginning of May, Mark jumped on a plane to Boston. The tumor was removed in Newburyport, breast cancer was diagnosed, Mark was referred to Dana Farber in Boston and the fight against cancer started.  Another operation removing the sentinel lymph node followed with lots of talks to doctors and four weeks of radiation. After months of heavy emotions, meltdowns, disbelief, fear, anger and treatments, Mark should be cancer free at the moment, but there is no way of telling.

Male Breast Cancer Awareness!

MEN CAN GET BREAST CANCER. It is not something we ever thought of or imagined happening to Mark. Usually, male “victims” notice the bump themselves. We hope with Mark’s story, we have pointed out the possibilities of male breast cancer to our (male) readers. Although the chances are very small (1 out of 1000), or as Mark says “With me being the one guy to have breast cancer, none of my friends should have to worry about it anymore!” – be aware! As for women, and this is a shocking fact to me as well, the chance of having breast cancer at some point in your life is 1 out of 8; that is 12.5%!!! The breast cancer reoccurrence rate is 20%.

BRCA Gene Mutations

When Mark’s sister Dru passed away a year ago, after a long and brave fight against ovarian cancer, we knew she was a BRCA1 carrier. But, knowing that this gene mutation presented a higher risk for breast and ovarian cancer – both female diseases, so we thought – we were only worried for Dru’s daughter, who, fortunately, does not have the BRCA1 gene. Little did we know that Mark was a carrier of the gene mutation as well and a year after his sister’s passing, it would cause havoc in the family again. If you have a lot of breast and ovarian cancer in your family, it might be wise to look into the BRCA1 and BRCA2 history. The statistics are horrendous. Women carrying the BRCA1 gene have a 50 – 85% risk of developing breast cancer (and > 50% chance of a second one) and a 20 – 40% risk of developing ovarian cancer (which has a high mortality rate, because by the time it is diagnosed, it is usually a stage 4 cancer!). For men with the BRCA1 gene mutation, the risk for breast cancer is 1% (yes, Mark is a rare case) and there is an increased risk for prostate and skin cancer. Men and women with this “gene” also have a higher chance of developing pancreas cancer.

The Importance of Healthy Food

It is common sense that eating healthy is important, but we didn’t realize just how important it is – in relation to breast cancer - to cut certain foods and drinks out of our diets. In Dru (who ate incredibly healthy vegetarian and organic food for most of her life) and Mark’s case, the bad genes ignored the healthy food approach, but Mark and I still believe that eating healthy might decrease the risk of (breast) cancer reoccurrence or of the development of new cancers, as it would in the general population. The big no no’s are sugar (which “feeds” cancer cells), fried food, processed meat and alcohol. But, non-organic and genetically modified food are also not good for you, and one should be careful with certain oils (especially palm oil, which is awful for the health and the environment), red meat and canned goods. 

Unfortunately, following this advice is basically impossible with the current attitude of the food companies and with what is available on the market. The only way to live a healthy life in this culture and this time is to grow your own food, which is only partly doable for most, or buy all organic produce, which more and more grocery stores offer. The GMO foods are a toughie for everyone (yell at the FDA!). And, if you add living on a boat in the middle of the Pacific with limited food availability to that tidbit of information, following a certain diet becomes hard. But, we will do our best and try to stick to chicken (with no added hormones, and ideally antibiotic-free), vegetables (especially cruciferous ones: broccoli, cabbage, bok choy, spinach, sprouts …), olive, canola and peanut oil, fruit, whole grains and tea. Phytonutrient-rich foods and anti-oxidants are recommended.

The Experts

Mark and I cannot thank our medical team of Dana Farber and Brigham and Women’s hospitals enough for their knowledge, help, time, understanding and compassion. Thank you to medical oncologist Dr. Jeselsohn, radiation oncologist Dr. Harris with nurse Mary, and surgeon Dr. Carter. We also appreciated the professionalism and care of Newburyport doctors Dr. Jackson and Dr. Bentley.

The Support

And, while we are at it, we would like to show gratitude to all our friends and family for their support by emails, phone calls or in person. We are very fortunate and grateful to have found a personal retreat in the house of Mark’s parents Stan and Carol and in AstraZeneca Hope Lodge in Boston during this ordeal. And, last but not least, we thank our good cruising friends Leo and Gesina of SV Seluna, Fabio and Lisa of SV Amandla, and Birgit and Christian of SV Pitufa for keeping an eye on and taking care of our floating home Irie in Tahiti during the last 3.5 months!

The Future

Who knows about our future? Who knows about any future? In the short term, Mark and I will go back to Irie and spend more time in French Polynesia (Societies). As of now, Mark’s chest is still red from the radiation and a lot of the hair has to grow back. He will take the hormone drug Tamoxifen for 5 years (depending on possible side effects) and needs a check-up every six months. We will never know whether the breast cancer is totally defeated, or whether it will reoccur, or whether another cancer will develop. Cancer is part of our lives now and forever, but so is our love for each other and the realization that medical discoveries and cures will keep improving…

One of the "bridges" between Dana Farber and Brigham and Women's

Walking through one of the "bridges" between the main hospitals

Mark and his surgeon, Dr. Carter

Mark and the helpful Darlene of Dr. Carter's office


Weekly check-up with Dr. Harris and nurse Mary

Thank you to all our friends and family for their support