Showing posts with label Papeete. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Papeete. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 2, 2014

Taina Marina Moorings: Beware!

The title of this blog could also be “A Boat Owner’s Worst Nightmare!” or “Irie’s Messed up Mooring Lines: Mystery Solved!” or “Ignorance is Bliss!” or “Hear me Out: a Reason to Complain?” but since the responsibility of our latest and most unbelievable revelation lies solely with Taina Marina in Tahiti, they deserve to be part of the title… in a BAD way.

When Mark and I left Irie in Taina Marina, Tahiti, on mooring ball A19 for an indefinite time (after Mark was diagnosed with cancer, we flew to the US for surgery and treatment), we made sure everything was as well prepared as possible in this particular and unexpected situation. We had heard that A19 was a newly serviced mooring ball after it had broken loose recently, something we saw as a positive thing, since we would be the only boat on this mooring and a very light and short one in comparison to other boats in the cruising fleet, so how would we be able to break a mooring suitable for a 40’ monohull? And we had attached three mooring lines through the loop of the ball: one forward off each bow and one “back-up” line in the middle. This set-up meant three things: it kept the ball in front and in the middle of our boat, so nothing was touching our hulls and our newly applied bottom pain, chafing of the lines was impossible, and in case one of the lines developed a problem, there were two other lines to hold Irie securely. Friends frequently checked on her in case something looked suspicious; the marina had their contact information.

On August 15th, Mark and I returned to our floating home, ready to settle back into our life on the water. We saw that Irie was lying slack against the mooring ball. Upon further investigation, we found a pile of mooring lines on the front deck and only one single line ran from one bow to the other through the loop of the mooring ball. From the moment our boat moved, the sawing movement would cause chafe to the one line and/or the loop (something every serious boater knows) with the potential danger of the line snapping and our boat being on the loose. And, the way this one line was tied (around the outsides of the bows!!), our boat was moving over the rope and all the new, expensive bottom paint we put on in Apataki in March, was being rubbed off! Needless to say, we were not very happy about this new found situation and the only thing we found out was that none of our friends were responsible. The neighbors in the mooring field didn’t reveal anything and when we paid our steep bill (which was already higher than expected, because they raised the weekly price when we were gone and did not honor the rate we had received) to the manager Philippe Olite, he took the money without any further information.

(For the people who are interested: catamarans pay double the rate of monohulls, despite the fact that we, at 35 feet, were awake many nights to keep an eye out when oversized monohulls – paying less than us – on neighboring mooring balls came inches from our boat during wind shifts and tidal changes. Price for a cat: 276cfp ($3)/foot/week or 551cfp ($6)/foot/month.)

What had happened to Irie’s mooring lines remained a mystery… until a few days ago. The catamaran Paradocs entered our anchorage in Arue and when passing our boat, one of the crew yelled: “Hey, I saved your boat two weeks ago in Taina Marina! It was just floating…” What?????? From the moment the new arrival had dropped the anchor and settled next to us, Mark and I took our dinghy over and requested more information. Around August 8th, Nicholas had come home by dinghy from playing ukulele elsewhere. It was about midnight when he saw our cat Irie “dragging” through the mooring field. The mooring ball and all three lines were still attached! He had banged on our hull, but nobody was home. Our boat was about to crash into another catamaran, so he urged those owners to wake up and together they fended Irie off just in time to prevent any damage. Then, Nicholas contacted the marina staff, who – begrudgingly because of the late hour – towed our boat to another mooring ball, where she stayed until A19 was fixed. Then, Philippe and crew put Irie back on that one, with only one line attached. And, he never told us about it!

Despite our initial shock and anger, we realize that mooring balls break. Shit happens! What we don’t understand is how Marina Taina did not take any responsibility for what happened, and how Philippe (“I don’t remember. Moorings break all the time.”) feels totally fine about not telling us anything and about the fact that we could have lost our home (“That’s why you have insurance.”). If the wind had come from the other direction, Irie would have ended up on the reefs. That being sad, we are very grateful that Nicholas saved our boat and that no serious damage was done. Discovering that you almost lost your house and way of life is quite the scare and our good karma for having saved at least three other cruising boats from crashing into shore or heading out to sea during our seven years on the water has been put to the test!

Friday, May 30, 2014

Nothing Else Matters


Change of Plans

Mark and I are taking hot, pressurized showers, doing laundry in a machine, driving a car to the grocery store and spending time away from Irie. I enjoy ice cream, almost every day. No, we are not on a holiday, even though we planned to treat ourselves to a week of vacation on Easter Island in May; it would be the first real vacation for us in over seven years (even though that is probably hard to believe). Instead, a very eventful May has passed and we are in Newburyport, Massachusetts, USA.  Not by choice, but very glad to have friends and family around. Mark has been here almost a month and I arrived two weeks ago. When we will be back on Irie is anyone’s guess. How plans can change fast and unexpected…


Just Like That…

In January, Mark fell with his torso on a winch. He was in a lot of pain. Two weeks later, he noticed a bump under his right nipple. It had to be a result of the injury. Taiohae does not have the right equipment for an analysis to check it out; we didn’t bother. A month later, the bump was still there, seemingly of the same proportions. It would have to heal soon. Apataki does not have a hospital. We dealt with crappy weather and a successful haulout. Another month later, we went to the infirmerie (clinic) in Fakarava. There is no doctor in the village; the nurse thought the lump was related to the injury, but recommended us to go to Tahiti to have it checked out. About two weeks later, we arrived in Papeete on a Friday and immediately went to the public hospital. An ultrasound was scheduled for the following Tuesday. No conclusion was reached, but the doctor managed to do a biopsy the same day to not delay any further investigations. The biopsy result arrived another two weeks later. “I have bad news for you. You have cancer!” The world around us collapsed.

Biopsy report of the hospital in Pape'ete
Are We sure?

The emotional roller coaster ride started and would last for a long time to come. We translated the French biopsy report and different doctors and surgeons had a look at it. It could be cancer. Or, it couldn’t. Is it? Or, is it not? We were shocked. We were relieved. We were in disbelief. We were confused. The diagnosis was a bit ambiguous, but all agreed that removing the lump would be the next step. Would we have that done in Tahiti? Or in the US? How about insurance? A few visits to doctors’ offices in Pape’ete followed. Four days after hearing the initial diagnoses, Mark was on a plane to Boston. Cost: $1800!

I stayed on Irie, still hoping the tumor was benign and that Mark would be back in three weeks. I could use a little personal time to work on a few projects and cruising friends kept my spirits up and had me over for dinner. Mark underwent a successful operation in Newburyport and another biopsy followed. Conclusion: he had, indeed, breast cancer… against all odds. He was a male of under 60 years old and – definitely – not obese, but… his sister had the BRCA1 gene mutation and passed away last year after a long fight against ovarian cancer. Everybody now assumed Mark had the bad gene as well.


A Hell of a Day

Once this news came to me, Monday afternoon (May 12th), all hell broke loose on Irie. I spent hours on Skype, through a crappy internet connection, to secure a flight for Wednesday. I had one full day to prepare Irie and leave indefinitely (a scary thought in itself). To make matters worse, the swell was unusually high that night and the following day(s). Irie was pitching wildly during the rest of my stay in Tahiti. I didn’t sleep at night, and got up at 4am to start prepping the boat and communicating with Mark and friends. In between chores, every ten minutes or so, I had to rush outside and gag, losing a lot of precious time to let my stomach settle. The combination of stress, emotions, seasickness, heartache and adrenaline is not a good one. But, I survived and – with the help of good friends – got the task done before dark (6pm), when I really had to start packing. Another bouncy, sleepless night and I was picked up at 5am the following morning to get to the airport.

Massive waves created a very bouncy anchorage before I left

Our heartfelt gratitude goes out to Chris and his family on SV Iona, Leo and Gesina on SV Seluna, Cheryl and René on SV Gypsy Blues, and Lisa and Fabio on SV Amandla! More names will undoubtedly be added to this list based on how long we are separated from Irie. 


Invasive Papillary Carcinoma

It took a few weeks and a whole lot of appointments and opinions before we came to the point of knowing for sure what Mark’s cancer is all about. I will not bore you with the details or the array of emotions involved while waiting for results. We went from a suggested double mastectomy to a less drastic lumpectomy in combination with radiation, possible chemo and a predicted treatment period of 3-7 months. All pretty shocking, when just weeks before, you were planning on sailing in the Society Islands, looking forward to a scheduled visit from family in June and then slowly heading west to Fiji for cyclone season.  No more anticipation is to be had, however, and planning anything at this point is useless.

Waiting for a check-up by the surgeon
 The diagnosis of Mark’s cancer is invasive papillary carcinoma, a very rare type of breast cancer, but – apparently – a “good” one; one that is less likely to spread and that is responsive to treatment. 1 out of 1000 breast cancers is detected in men; less than 1% of all invasive breast cancers is papillary carcinoma! 10% of the breast cancers in men is caused by the BRCA2 gene, not the BRCA1… Mark is unique (nothing new there :-)) and presents an interesting case study. As of now, his suggested treatment consists of an operation to take out the sentinel lymph nodes (scheduled on June 3rd) to make sure the cancer has not spread, 5-6 weeks of radiation after the results of the pathology report will be known and radiation mapping has taken place (all time consuming), and 5 years of hormone treatment. Things might change based on the lymph node report.



To Be Continued…

Mark is in the good, but busy, hands of Dana Farber in Boston right now. This is one of the world’s top cancer institutes and we are very happy and fortunate that he can be treated there. The downside is that everything takes a long time (according to our antsy minds and purposeful reason to be here), with a plethora of specialists involved and many patients needing treatment. Over the coming months, I will post updates about our progress fighting the cancer and – hopefully – about some fun (summer) activities in New England. Our sailing adventures and stories are on hold!

At Dana Farber to meet with the genealogist - patients are "branded" and can be tracked!
 
Meeting with the head of the radiation department at Dana Farber

After problems with the first BRCA1 test (for insurance reasons), Mark has to send another sample

A new spit sample is packed up and ready to go to the lab in California

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Stuck in Tahiti, but Never Bored!


When you live on a boat and cruise the seas of the world, plans change all the time, even more so in the Pacific Ocean, where the distances are long. Most people we have talked to the last year, did not stick to their initial plans or schedules for one reason or another. Boat issues are the number 1 incentive to stay longer in a place (it needs to get fixed before being able to move) or leave immediately (to find parts). Some cruisers rush to a haulout facility, others to Tahiti.  You stay longer than planned for packages to show up, because you enjoy the social scene, or because you are finally in a city with all its useful amenities. Or, because you could use a break from the boat.

Mark and I had been talking about a few options once we arrived in Tahiti. After getting some things straightened out on Irie, figuring out some health issues and catching up on internet tasks, we could move to shore for a bit (hard to find a suitable place for one month near the mooring field, and moving all our things would be a hassle), sail over to pretty Moorea (a good option once we could pull ourselves away from the conveniences here), fly to the States to see friends and family (very expensive and someone would have to keep an eye on the boat) or take a vacation to Easter Island for a week (yes, we do need a real vacation and haven’t had one in the seven years aboard).


In the end, we decided it would be best for Mark to fly to the US and for me to stay on Irie. He could take care of the things he needed to take care of there, be with friends and family and have unlimited, fast internet, and I could keep life going at this end. While he is being spoiled with hot, pressurized showers, an efficient washing machine, a car to run errands and family dinners, I am spoiled by cruiser friends around me. They invite me over for dinner on their boat, give me a lift to shore, join me to Happy Hour, include me doing fun activities and bring me fresh baguettes and homemade cake. My days are so full that I barely have time for those leftover boat projects and all those articles that need writing! :-)


Happy Hour at Casa Bianca with Rachel, Patrick, Cheryl, ...


... Chris, Mark, Rene, and Giorgio


Cleaning and fixing the raw water pump


Happy Hour with Gesina and Leo - more people we met before, all over the Caribbean and Pacific

  
Steve and Mark at a bar in Pape'ete


Liesbet and Lily at the same bar - we met the friendly folks of Liward in the Perlas, Panama


The roulottes in Pape'ete - a great evening out!


The roulottes (food vans) bring their own cooks, waitresses, tables, chairs and equipment


One of the roulottes on the waterfront in Pape'ete (only at night)

 
Have a smooth trip and stay in the US, Mark, and see you back on Irie soon!!!