Mark arrived in Belgium, stayed three pleasant weeks, and
left again. We had arranged three four day weekends ahead of time, with friends
and family, and realized abruptly that this meant there were only three weekdays
in between. Duh! The math is not that hard, but somehow, we assumed weeks
contained more than seven days…
During those short “weeks”, we hung out with my parents, saw
other people, had a few health related appointments and caught up on things.
Just like everywhere else in the world and at any other time in the past six
years, Mark needed to take care of Wirie business as well. Usually (in French
Polynesia and New Zealand), our days would start very early, to take the time
difference into account. In Belgium, however, his main work hours were between
3pm and 11pm, to coincide with office hours on the East Coast of the States.
Fridays and Mondays were a bit difficult with those commitments and the need
for WiFi and a “quiet office”, but in general, our weekends were a blast!
The first destination was Holland, where my cousin Griet and
her husband Wim lead us throughout Zeeland (with its tasty mussels and oysters)
to Dordrecht, where we stayed in a vacation bungalow for three nights. The
objective was to explore National Park De Biesbosch, stroll through the
historic center of Dordrecht, visit the impressive and oh so typically Dutch
“Kinderdijk” with its picturesque windmills, taste some of Wim and his two
friends’ homebrewed beers and chill out in good company. We succeeded on all
fronts and had a wonderful time with beautiful weather.
During our second weekend, Mark and I borrowed my mum’s car
to drive to the Ardennes, in the southeast of Belgium. Our friends Rosy and
Peter had arranged a rental house for a group of eight adults and four
children. We happened to be in the country at the right time and were invited
along. What followed was a very relaxed weekend with interesting, multicultural
people, some hikes and perfect, sunny weather. We split cooking and other
duties and had a very nice time. On the last day, two of the families had left,
but Rosy, Peter, Yanou, Mark and I made a little trip to the pretty town of La
Roche, where we visited the castle and had lunch, before the long, traffic
ridden drive back “home”.
The weekend before Mark left again, we were welcomed by
Sabine and Michael, German friends we met many years ago while camping in
Mexico. Since the last time we saw them, three years ago, they had moved from
Munich to a cute town in the German countryside, where they are happily settled
in a very unique, historic and charming cottage. They showed us around the
area, introduced their horses and cars to us, took us out to dinner, let us
savor their amazing artistic creations (photographs, movies and pottery), and
joined us to Bonn for a not so impressive Africa Festival. As always, we had a
really good time with them, exchanging travel stories and future plans. Thanks
to my parents again for lending us their only car for another four days, a car
I have been using much more than they have the past seven weeks!!
Yerseke in Zeeland is famous for its oysters and "Zeeuwse mossels"
Mark, Griet and Wim... still drawn to boats, in Yerseke
Oyster farm in Yerseke, Zeeland
Going for our first walk in National Park De Biesbosch
Exploring the historic town of Dordrecht
Moored boats in Dordrecht
Tourist photo: in a Dutch clog
One of the many, pretty windmills in Kinderdijk
Kinderdijk with all its windmills is spectacular, charming and picturesque!
In front of a "working" windmill we could visit inside - very interesting!
Typical Holland: windmills and water!
A game of petanque (bocce ball) on a rainy morning
Guided tour to a restored duck catching farm in De Biesbosch NP
The wild ducks' final destination
Boat tour with my family and handsome husband in De Biesbosch
Walking with friends and their families in the Ardennes
The house we rented and shared in the Ardennes
Yummy Sunday BBQ in gorgeous weather, the Ardennes
Going for a hike, crossing the river Ourthe
Passing fields, horses and forests...
...and a cute, little high water bridge
With Rosy, Peter and Yanou, we made a day trip to La Roche
Visit of the castle in La Roche
View from the castle
An eye pleasing castle visit, and we were the only tourists!
Michael and Sabine's charming house in the countryside of Drinsahl
Art exhibit, where Sabine had some of her pottery masks on display...
... and "farmer" Michael some of his amazing Africa photographs
Sabine let me ride her gentle horse Mona in the arena
And, we went for a fun drive in Sabine's "duck" (2 chevaux) - no key is needed, just two people to push her down the hill and start! :-)
Flying internationally has never caused me any grief in
regards to baggage allowance. Sure, the days of being able to bring two 25kg (50
lbs) free bags with you as checked luggage are mostly over, but any respectable
airline carrying you over an ocean, allows their passengers to check one bag of
25kg (50 lbs) for free, no problem, even if it is packed to the brim. Flying from and
back to Tahiti – through the US and the UK – therefore did not prove to be a
worry or a hassle on Air France, Virgin Atlantic and British Airways. The issue
on my way back home arose for the last leg Nuku Hiva – Tahiti.
The checked baggage allowance on Air Tahiti (to Tahiti and
elsewhere within French Polynesia) is a mere 10 kg (20 lbs)! Yes, we are
talking about the luggage which is being stowed in the bowel of the airplane.
If you prove that you have a connecting international flight within days of arriving
in Tahiti, you buy a return ticket and you arrange for your file to be adjusted
in the computer, Air Tahiti allows you to check 20 kg (40 lbs) of luggage. Much
better, but… still 5 kg or 10 lbs less than what every visitor to the islands
bring from home or what they assume is allowed. When I made all my arrangements
for the trip to Tahiti in Nuku Hiva, nobody mentioned anything about carry-ons.
The flights from Belgium to Tahiti were long; the lay-overs
as well. By the time I wanted to check in with Air Tahiti for my last leg of
the journey, I was tired. While the previous check-ins and flights went smooth,
with no issues in regards to my big duffel bag, my regular sized carry-on and
my laptop bag, at the desk of Air Tahiti, in the airport of Faaa (Tahiti), I
came to a stop. And, so did other tourists. My duffel bag weighed 22 kg (44
lbs), so 2 kg or 4 lbs too much. Then, the employee wanted to see my carry-on,
which fits in the normal overhead bins of other airplanes. Without blinking,
she told me this item was not allowed in the cabin of the plane (even though I left
Nuku Hiva with it in the cabin of the same Air Tahiti plane) and that I had to
check it. On top of the restricted size for this flight, the allowed weight for a carry-on is... 3 kg (6 lbs)! Mine weighed 18 kg (36 lbs). With a blank face,
she told me I owed her the equivalent of $160 in overweight charges!
I complained. Other tourists did as well, after the first shock of this unwelcome news, but all paid the required fees, rather promptly.
I did not. I tried all the arguments I could find – how unfair this is to
someone who arrived on connecting flights allowing this luggage arrangement,
how it was not an issue on the leg TO Tahiti, how none-obese people should not
have to suffer from the adjusted luggage allowance limits conducted every three
years and getting 5 kg (10 lbs) less each time, how the weight issue must not
be much of an issue if you can get everything on the plane anyway, as long as
you pay huge amounts of money for it, how – if weight was such a problem – they
should weigh passengers AND their luggage together and come up with a total
allowance (South Pacific people are known to be relatively heavy)- to no avail.
Appalled by the ridiculous and mandatory fee, I uttered
again how expensive the plane ticket was to begin with (over $700 for a three
hour flight) and that the overweight charge really was a lot of money. Then, the
woman at the desk mentioned that I could try to check my carry-on bag as cargo.
Time was running out, but I managed to find the freight department and – to
make a crazy expensive story a tad less expensive – shipped my carry-on as
“cargo” with the same plane for about $110. I could have sent the luggage on
the next day’s flight for about $60, but… then all the chocolaty contents would
have melted! The plane from Tahiti to Nuku Hiva carried about 20 passengers,
spread out over 70 seats, bringing the empty seat – paying passenger ratio to
3:1 …
When there is no competition or customer consideration,
companies like Air Tahiti can charge what they want and take advantage of every
chance to do so! My recommendation for cruisers wanting to fly to their home countries or for guests to come visit, is to wait until the boat is in Tahiti.
When Mark and I found out both sets of parents would visit us at about the same time in St. Martin/St. Maarten, Mark got a bit stressed and initially didn’t like the idea.How were we going to split ourselves up, spend enough time with everybody and not give the parents an overdose of each other on this first occasion they met?I promised him it would all work out fine and was excited about this great opportunity for all the parents to meet, the first opportunity in over four years!
My parents, Jacques and Agnes, arrived early March, a week before Carol and Stan (Mark’s parents) showed up.They planned to stay on Irie for a week and we all hoped to sail around the island and explore several anchorages along the way.Bad timing brought us a serious engine problem and just like that, the four of us (and Darwin) got stuck on Irie in Simpson Bay Lagoon.Luckily for us, we were anchored in a very safe, comfortable and convenient spot (with a beach for Darwin and stores for us), before we became immobilized.My parents and I, sometimes with Mark and Darwin, decided to do most of our explorations by bus and one day, we all rented a car to see the sights of the island.
Grand Case, the only other place in St. Martin we had taken the boat, was visited for a tasty lunch and my parents walked from there to Friar’s Bay and cosy, pretty HappyBay.During their stay, we walked around in Philipsburg, the capital of St.Maarten and in Marigot, the
capital of St. Martin a few times.
We tried the beaches of Mullet and MahoBay. The second one is famous for its setting, right at the end of the runway.Big planes take off from here, creating a blast that might throw you in the water and when a jet arrives right above your head, you instinctively take a few steps back, because it feels like the roaring machine will hit you.Exhilarating to say the least!
On our tour of the island, the five of us walked some trails on Pic Paradis, the highest mountain on the island with some spectacular views.We had lunch on OrientBeach where we made sure that the southern end of the beach is, indeed, full with nudist.This phenomenon is also noticeable at other beaches on the French side of the island, but never as prominent and publicly as here.In the afternoon, we checked out Oyster Pond and the ruins of FortAmsterdam near Philipsburg.
By the time Carol and Stan arrived, my parents were settled in their comfortable hotel in St.Martin, bordering the lagoon.We focussed on Mark’s parents for a bit, doing very similar things than with my parents and visiting the same towns and sights.They stayed in a very roomy, self-contained condo at SimpsonBay, St. Maarten, where one of the most beautiful beaches on the island is located.Mark, Darwin and I enjoyed spending time with them and relaxing in the condo and on the beach.Once in a while, I, or we, would go over to my parents’ hotel to check in on them and their activities.
A big highlight was the meeting between the parents.The first time, we all had lunch on the French side and that went well.Everybody got along fine and more “appointments” followed.The whole family spent an afternoon on the beach near the condo, went sailing on Irie and concluded the visits with another lunch near Marigot.Mark’s parents had brought the new piece we needed for our broken engine and from the moment that was fixed, we arranged a day sail for everybody.It felt great to finally leave the lagoon!Mark manoeuvred Irie through the narrow bridge and before long, we glided through the turquoise blue waters of the Caribbean Sea.We stopped at some rocks near Grand Case to snorkel and had lunch on the boat.My mum was still suffering from seasickness, so I brought her and my dad back to shore in Grand Case.The rest of us sailed a couple of hours longer along the north coast of St. Martin and back.On the trip, we crossed the “border” with Anguilla and gazed at the contours of Tintamarre and St. Barth.The weather was wonderful and the sailing awesome!
Mark’s parents left ten days after they arrived and my parents stayed for three weeks on the island.Everybody had a good time and it all worked out fine.We hope to get together again in the future.Mark and I both appreciate the effort of our parents to fly these long distances to see us and be with us.I guess we are a good excuse for a distant vacation and an encouragement for them to see different cultures and places.But, I’m sure, deep in their hearts they would like us to stay put somewhere, ideally within reach, and live a normal life…
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New Blog: Roaming About - A Life Less Ordinary
Since November 2015, Mark and I have a new website to chronicle our current house and pet sitting adventures, camper van travels and alternative lifestyle. Check it out here.
Irie is a Fountaine Pajot Tobago, a 35 foot catamaran with a beam of about 19 feet. She was born in France in 1998, and spent her childhood in the Caribbean, before arriving in Maryland, USA.
Irie used to be called Big Trouble, a name she didn't like. From the moment she received her new name, she became a happy girl again, feeling healthy and almost as good as new. Just like everybody else she has her own problems and we keep working on that never ending project list. After sailing thousands of miles, we are still very happy with her and wouldn't want any other boat. For over seven years now, she performed as our house, transportation device and office! But, as of November 2014, Mark and I are ready for new adventures, so Irie can be yours! We have put her up for sale. For more information, check out my blog about our decision or the full listing.
"Irie" means "all good" in Jamaican (Creole). "Irie, mon!" We hope our lives remain irie, and yours as well.
It's Liesbet
Liesbet is a freelance writer and lifetime adventurer from Belgium. Her biggest passion is traveling, and... trying new things. That's how she ended up with Mark, and on this boat. She's flexible, adventurous and easy-going; a must for her kind of life. Some people call her "crazy", but let's just stick with "different".
She adored Kali and Darwin, and actually likes all animals, except mosquitoes, the only creatures she can kill. There's not much that she really hates, other than cruelty, hypocrisy, helplessness and injustice in general. She's still excited about seeing new places, writing about them and hanging out with dolphins, and other wildlife.
Living on a tight budget has been her lifetime commitment in order to travel "forever". To create that budget, she writes, translates (Dutch-English), proofreads, and -if really really really needed- does manual labor.
For more info about Liesbet's articles, click here.
It's Mark
Mark was born in Connecticut, but grew up in upstate New York. He lived in Massachusetts, before moving to California, his favorite state. After living "the American dream" for ten years, he decided it wasn't his thing. After meeting Liesbet in December 2004, he started to travel indefinitely, first by camper, then by sailboat.
He hates ignorance, traffic, and bad customer service. The things he likes are being single-focused, hiking, listening to good music, and just chilling. His biggest passion is sailing, and that's what he is doing right now, full time.
Just so he would never have a spare moment of time anymore, he came up with a great idea to provide WiFi on boats in April 2009. With the help of Liesbet, he invented and developed The Wirie, a marine WiFi system, which grew to be a real business with a partner in the United States and is still expanding with Tim's help.
After a year of full time commitment and very hard work in 2014, he developed a new line of The Wirie products, combining WiFi and cell technologies. The Wirie pro was released in January 2015.
It's Kali
Our girl was an Australian Shepherd mix, with a fluffy tail and a cute face. She survived an awful disease as a puppy, and used that strength throughout her whole life.
Kali was obsessed with tennis balls. She loved human food, but was not allowed to have any. Except on her birthday, when a deliciously cooked steak awaited her. She liked to sniff and stroll around, doing her thing, knowing that we were around. She loved rolling in the grass, but what she liked most was being in the water. She could literally wade in it for hours, wagging her tail, pawing rocks or digging for imaginary things, occasionally sticking her whole face under the water surface, and telling us how much she liked doing this. She was terrified of thunderstorms and fireworks, or everything producing a loud boom. She also didn't like fake grass.
Kali and her unrelated "brother" Darwin were well-traveled puppies, and of all the Central American countries, they liked Mexico , Belize, and Costa Rica the best. Why? There are lots of beaches, calm water, and no leash law! While cruising on Irie, they loved the Bahamas the most.
Tragedy struck just when we were ready to explore and have fun in the "real Caribbean". Kali died unexpectedly in Fajardo, Puerto Rico, on December 26th, 2008. To understand what happened, read the blog "Goodbye, Sweet Girl" of January 2009 (http://www.itsirie.com/2009/01/goodbye-sweet-girl.html). We still miss her very much and think about our special girl every day.
It's Darwin
Darwin was also an Australian Shepherd mix, with a pretty tail, and handsome face. He was very playful, a little dumb sometimes (in a doggie way), but knew darn well how to steal your heart. He was so funny, rolling over in the grass, being eager to do tricks, making funny noises and looking very innocent. He had a way of getting comfortable wherever he laid down, ideally resting his head on one thing or another, from somebody's lap to the table.
Darwin hated to get his toes wet, especially after it rained on the grass. He also didn't like to be rinsed off, have his nails clipped or get a brushing. He loved to annoy his sister Kali, nipping her or grabbing her leg to get her to play. He liked being chased by other dogs, retrieving toys from the air, water, and floor, digging holes in the sand, swimming, "hipping" you with his wet butt, licking good smelling air, eating treats, and wagging his tail. But, most of all he loved to be with us, whatever we did or wherever we were. He was a happy boy!
On December 1st, 2010, not even two years after we lost Kali, disaster struck again in our small, but happy family. Darwin had been diagnosed with malignant tumors in the US and died two days later. We were just heading back to our life on Irie in the Caribbean after a three month break. A boat and life without dogs. We still cannot grasp or belief it. Our hearts will always ache because of this tremendous loss. For the story about Darwin's last days, read the blog "Darwin: Our Bestest Boy"of December 2010 (http://www.itsirie.com/2010/12/darwin-our-bestest-boy.html).