People told us that in the month of April, the weather in the Tuamotus would improve. People also told us that the south part of Fakarava is very nice and a must-see in this archipelago. People were right on both accounts! The weather has been perfect the last week and a bit: sunny skies, and a constant breeze of about 15 knots out of the east. And south Fakarava? It is a wonderful and beautiful place to be and every morning I wake up and I look outside, a smile as bright as the sunlight appears and I am eager to start the day… Let us be reminded how great it can be to live on a sailboat in the South Pacific!
Some of the motus on our horizon
We left the remote eastern anchorage of the atoll a few days ago and had a fun and fast sail over to the south part. Irie flew on a beam reach in the flat lagoon water and arrived on the southern end around noon, a perfect time to see all the coral heads scattered around the anchorage SW of the pass. With some concentrated conning, we found a place amongst the dark spots, two connected floats keeping the chain above the coral head closest to Irie, our anchor set well in white sand 16 feet underneath. The water is crystal clear, seven black tip reef sharks constantly circle the boat and the view to shore consists of a string of palm fringed motus with sandy beaches – the first ones we have seen in the Tuamotus. Exploring the waters around them by dinghy makes for fun excursions. Jumping in the water for a shower is always an exciting event.
Part of our resident family of sharks
The main reason people visit this part of Fakarava is to dive or snorkel the pass, where hundreds of sharks reside: white tips, black tips and greys. The visibility is reported to reach 100 feet at times and when we floated by, the abyss and groups of divers were spotted at least 70 feet underneath. It is an eerie and thrilling feeling to see the coral wall go down so deep, where fish turn into little specks and where “tiny” sharks rest on the bottom with their fins spread wide. Everything at those depths looks dull and dark from above and the amount and distance of the sharks we encountered was not exciting enough for me, except, when one approached Mark from behind while he was towing the dinghy. His reaction when I pointed out the grey animal near his feet was classic!
Keep a close eye out!
When we approached the shallower area near shore (where a dive shop and resort are located), it became very interesting. The fish were colorful and abundant, the reefs vibrant and the increased shark population moved about at eye level! Mark stayed at a respectable distance, but how cool it is to snorkel alongside these mellow but vicious looking creatures! For the sake of a picture and a movie, or even without those excuses, it is worth the thrill to swim amongst their midst and I didn’t know where to look first. A place to come back again and again. Even when you wade around in the sandy shallows, the sharks keep you company as if you were their best friend. Families with kids – locals and tourists – don their masks and fins and observe these sharks in their beautiful and natural surroundings. How many North American parents reading this are raising their eyebrows at this very moment? J
Sharks of the deep blue
And of the not so deep blue
Now, we’re talking!
Don’t wiggle your toes, Mark…
Mark and I are very happy to have come to this place and to finally enjoy ourselves a bit. The location and the atmosphere are inducing to do boat projects and the schedule “work in the morning and play in the afternoon” suits us well. To us, cruising really is “living and working on your boat in exotic places” and for now, while being in a comfortable place, we don’t mind it at all!
Church of the small village of Tetamanu
Abandoned house from the time Tetamanu was the capital of the Tuamotus
Idyllic setting for a resort
Bridge to part of the resort
Turtle in Fakarava’s South pass – at least 50 feet down
Back to our area – motu land!
Clearer water than in the San Blas
Paradise found?
Visiting the motus and their sand banks
Time for our honeymoon… Can we pretend to be rich and stay here?
White tip reef shark
Snorkeling in south Fakarava is gorgeous
Another shark encounter…
(Our excuses for the granular pictures. Blogs are posted via email over crappy 2G connections)
Moorea is a beautiful island in the Society group of French
Polynesia. Only 15 miles removed from Tahiti, its dramatic contour is visible (and
luring) from there on clear days, and as a destination it is only a three-four hour
sail or a one hour ferry ride away. Moorea is a “high” island surrounded by
coral reefs. Its body consists of sharply outlined peaks, green hills and white
sand beaches. Between shore and reef, the lagoon presents smooth clear waters
of all shades of blue. Because of its close proximity to Tahiti and its
plethora of things to see and do, Moorea attracts heaps of tourists. You see
them being transported in vans, buses or pick-up trucks onshore and being
ferried on tours with lagoon and whale watch boats, dive boats or jetskis. On
busy days, Irie has to swallow a lot of wake and bounciness, but usually, the
anchorage we are in right now is pretty quiet and we are the only boat around;
a rare sight in Moorea! We enjoy privacy and comfort in a sublime setting.
The underwater highlight of Moorea is called “Stingray
City”, a dedicated area where stingrays – and now also an increasing amount of
reef sharks – gather. The reason: tour operators feed the rays who, in return,
love to be around people and even climb on them, offering tourists the
opportunity to touch and stroke these gentle creatures and take amazing
pictures. Some rays even climb all over the people standing and swimming in the
shallow water, so we’ve heard. Not a fan of feeding wildlife (even though the
stingray feeding has been an attraction on Moorea for over twenty years), Mark
and I parked our dinghy amongst the tour boats, and I jumped in the water to
see what all the fuzz was about. Mark remained dry above the water surface,
because the circling sharks – outnumbering the sting rays – put him off from
jumping in. The fact that a tourist had been bitten by a shark here a week
prior supported his decision. 
I saw some stingrays swimming about, but most must have been
tired from all the commotion and feeding earlier in the morning, because they
were resting on the bottom, covered with white sand. Since we didn’t have any
food to give them, they went about their business after the initial curiosity and
anticipation hearing our outboard engine upon our arrival. Even though I
managed to stroke one of the bigger residents, I was a little disappointed that
they didn’t “climb all over me”. Like in South Fakarava in the Tuamotus, many
black tip reef sharks were present – in this tranquil climate I almost had to
urge to pet them as well – but they just swam around and kept their distance.
Maybe coming over earlier in the morning, before all the tourist hubbub starts,
provides better interaction with the velvety and gracious stingrays? 
