People
I would not call the Panamanian people over friendly. One
time, a local guy helped us and some friends out with his bus card, paying for
the ride and not accepting the dollar back. Over the year, I’ve had a couple of
men get up and offer me their seat in the bus. Usually, people don’t like to
cue, but prefer pushing to get on the bus first, they don’t smile often nor
greet tourists on the streets, they like loud music, crowding and tight
clothing. It is common for them to throw garbage on the street, in nature or
through the bus window – sides of streets are very littered, mostly outside of
Panama City – even whether there are bins around. They are never in a rush or
stressed, and mostly do what they please without seeing any harm in it. Once, I
had a woman with a chock full cart cut the line in front of me at the grocery
store check-out as if that was the most normal thing to do!
Businesses
When you own a boat on which things break all the time, run
a business or have to stock-up on groceries and other supplies, you need to
rely on local businesses. Panama, being a thoroughfare for many vessels on
either side of the canal, has surprisingly few conveniences for boaters. On top
of that, the careless attitude of the people makes things worse. Most people do
not seem to enjoy their job or their customers. You get used to the female
cashiers playing with their phone or their nails, hardly looking up to help you
out. A lot of patience is required and endurance to try to get what you want or
be helped properly and satisfyingly. That being said, you can get a lot of
things done over a long period of time and frustration, mainly in the city.
This all sounds a bit harsh, but many cruisers share our opinion and experiences.
Over the time we have spent in this country, we had two really positive
experiences (both in PC) and would recommend both businesses. The first is
Roger (Rogelio), the taxi driver, who is VERY reliable, friendly, helpful and
responsible. The other is the Balboa Dental Clinic, where the employees are
extremely friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. English is spoken by all.
Stores
Big, western-style grocery stores, small Chinese run shops,
marine stores, hardware centers, shopping malls, metal shops, specialty stores,
gourmet markets, department stores … you find it all in Panama City. There is
more available here than anywhere else in the country and that in itself is a
breath of fresh air. Still, particular items are unavailable, a pain to source
or very expensive, so when Mark returned from the US, his suitcases were chock
full of boat parts and repair materials.
Transportation
Panama City is a big place, with many stores. Visiting boats
are located at the Amador, which is a causeway, pretty far away from
everything. The way to get things done in the easiest fashion is by taxi. Fares
do add up quickly, especially since the return trip – with all the groceries –
is more expensive. The cheapest way is to take a $1 taxi (the minority of cabs
is interested in charging only $1 per person a ride, especially if you’re a
gringo) to Cinco de Mayo, one of the bus congregations, where you can take a
chicken bus or Metro bus close to your destination. You need to have a good
idea about the layout of the city and the unadvertised routes of the buses.
There are no bus schedules. The Metro buses are comfortable, relatively
uncrowded and airconditioned. You do need to buy a $2 card at one of the
vending locations and “put” money on it. Each person scans the (same) Metro
card when boarding the bus. Rides are 25 cents everywhere in the city. On the
way back, you can try to follow this process in reverse, or take a cab back to
the Amador, for which you will have to bargain big time. It is very important
to agree on a price before taking off!
Traveling (partway) by bus is very time consuming and most
cruisers prefer to use cabs. Having to run around the busy city like this every
day, hailing cabs, asking prices, knowing the drivers overcharge, bargaining
them down, trying again with another cab, albeit being successful in the end,
gets very tiring. Some Spanish knowledge is required. Don’t expect the cab
driver to give you a hand with all the groceries. Traffic in the city can be
horrendous as well, especially around rush hour. Once, I spent three hours on a
bus to reach my destination 15 minutes away. That was after the half an hour
taxi ride to take the bus. I have to admit I took this bus at the wrong road
and went the opposite way…
Anchorages
Mainland Panama does not have great anchorages and Panama
City is the worst. Cruisers can pick up a mooring (and pay) at the Balboa Yacht
Club, where a lancha is needed to get to shore (patience is required, freedom
to go whenever is gone) and where the close proximity to the canal means
rolling around at anchor. Or, they can anchor at La Playita anchorage, where
the big wake of passing ships, ferries and pilot boats create the same
uncomfortable moments at anchor, where stuff flies all over the place and the
boat is not at rest, ever. There is a good dinghy dock, but you have to pay $38
a week (per boat) to go ashore. Garbage disposal is free, but for fresh water
you pay 5 cents a gallon. Diesel is the same price as in the gas stations, but
much more convenient to get. The third option is the Las Brisas anchorage,
which only gets choppy and uncomfortable with strong winds from the north/east
or when the current differs from the wind direction. It is less busy and less
noisy, but the dinghy dock is very inconvenient, tricky and dangerous. Being
there is free and you have a nice view over the city. You also get to enjoy the
city’s run-off. And then there are the extremely expensive marinas as the only
other alternative… Each of these places gets showered with dirt from the big
city and the boat becomes truly gross and dirty, inside and out.
Weather
Most of the days have been warm and enjoyable, with blue
skies and a little breeze. The rain has stopped falling for many months to
come, so we have to buy and lug water again. The nights have been cool,
sometimes even chilly, and in the city, we slept with a comforter and took a
sweater when going out. In the mornings, we used the dew to “clean” our decks. The
water of the bay was frigid and taking showers less than pleasurable.
Condensation
took place in the hulls – mostly the underwater part - and we found a decent
amount of water in the bilges. Temperatures seem to be rising again now. The phenomenon of “red tide” has been
prominent everywhere. The water turns red with big particles floating about.
Not ideal to take a dip. We would love to get a little bit more (and
consistent) wind.
Wildlife
In the past, I have wanted to see sloths in the wild and I
have been looking and searching for them on many occasions. Big was my surprise
and excitement to see two of them in the trees at the parking lot of La
Playita! They live in that neck of the woods and around 16:30 – 17:00 you can
spot them eating the fruits off branches. There are also a lot of birds and
fish around, now that we are in the Pacific.
Social Times
Thursday means “pizza night” on the Amador, in the Eskinita
pizzeria. Lots of cruisers show up, a long table is formed and good food and
fun times are had. Books are swapped and goods are sold. One day, I joined Mark
and Marian (SV Zenna) to Taboga to observe the Festival of the Sea celebrations
and explore the cute island a bit. Mark and I also met up with our Austrian
friends Christian and Birgit (SV Pitufa) a few times and said our goodbyes to
Britta and Dave from SV Anam Cara. As they are getting ready for a new “twist”
in their lives, we are getting ready for our own, new kind of adventure as
well.
Mark and I have been in “the capital” (of the Marquesas) for
almost two weeks now and most of that time has been spent online. Stuff on the
internet to-do-lists accumulates over the months and slowly but surely we are
ticking some items off, like health insurance and boat insurance dealings,
sending full size pictures and articles for writing assignments, making the layout of the previous blog posts a bit better :-), research for
boat and other reasons, necessary behind
the scenes work for the Wirie, and so on. Trying to shake off that zombie
feeling you get from sitting hours behind the computer, we went ashore
frequently to take care of some doctor, pharmacy, hardware store and
supermarket visits. The town of Taiohae is very spread out, so it takes a while
to walk to some of the shops, but the locals are very friendly, offering rides
when they see a protruding thumb along the side of the road.
The hardware store was a bit of a disappointment and the
bank machine only gave out bills of 10.000 francs ($110) – which they refused
to change in the adjacent bank for smaller bills without the receipt (which
Mark never asks for since it is a waste of paper) - but other than that, you
can find quite a bit here, non-cruising related. For necessary boat parts,
hiking shoes and Tevas, we will have to wait another six months until we reach
Tahiti. Maybe… There is a cool church, and some tiki sites, and a walk along
the big bay is pleasant, but hot. The anchorage is on the bottom of a collapsed
volcano, so the surrounding “wall” (= jagged hills) is quite picturesque.
The rumors of sharks are true. Apparently, the bay is
“filled with hammerhead sharks”, which we have not seen yet. But, presence of
the grey shark is a fact. Every time the fishermen get back to the dock and
clean their catch, they toss the unwanted fish parts over the side, into the
bay, where tons of hungry six foot sharks, violently snatch them up. Once, Mark
and I just arrived ashore in our dinghy when that happened. The trashing of the
grey beasts created waves in the water and the splashing with their tails got
us soaking wet! We try to take quick showers and avoid the seawater when we are
bleeding. We did dare to be in for an hour or so on a clearer day, because
Irie’s bottom really needed scraping
and cleaning. Since the sharks get fed daily, they shouldn’t be hungry outside
of their meal times, right?
Every evening during the week, a local group is practicing
their singing, drumming and dancing skills for the festival coming up in
mid-December. It promises to be a fun and spectacular cultural event. We still
hope to make it back to Ua Huka for that. There are a few restaurants around,
but so far, we have only tried the yummy and relatively affordable food at “the
snack” closest to the dock. A decent plate of poisson cru (raw fish cooked in lemon juice with some veggies) with
rice and avocado costs about $5.50. A visit to the fancy restaurant is still on
the agenda!
