Preparing Irie for Her Pacific Journey

From the moment Mark and I decided to leave the Caribbean, transit the Panama Canal, and head into the South Pacific last October, we have been busy with preparations and planning. From ordering things online (Mark went to the USA for ten days), onshore shopping – and all the frustration that comes with that here in Panama – getting rid of unnecessary and heavy items on board to doing boat projects, fixing things, thoroughly cleaning and organizing cupboards and cabinets; it all takes a lot of time and energy.

After arriving in Panama City, on the Pacific side of the country a couple of weeks ago, the work started in earnest! Here are marine stores, supermarkets, hardware stores, malls and specialty shops a bus or a taxi ride away. It all takes a tremendous amount of time and determination, but we think we are almost ready. While Mark was in the United States, taking care of his sick sister and picking up the massive amount of needed boat parts, I provisioned Irie – one shopping trip, cab full and dinghy ride at a time - organized and cleaned everything and stocked the boat to the gills (including the bilges). She is as full as she has ever been and now we are a bit worried about her weight. Hopefully she can still sail fast!

The coming days we hope to finalize the shopping and searching for useful items to have aboard. We’ll do laundry – one last time in a real machine – and check out of the country, buy diesel, gasoline and water. And, maybe we should have a look at the charts as well! :-) The realization we are finally leaving Panama and starting a new adventure is slowly setting in. The meeting about the Galapagos islands we had yesterday with other cruisers helps and talking to friends with similar plans is finally getting us excited! This weekend, we hope to sail to the Las Perlas islands, where we hope to spend a few relaxing weeks and set off to the Galapagos islands.

The Value of $20 in Kuna Yala

The San Blas islands - locally called Kuna Yala - consists of hundreds of beautiful, exotic islands. Some of them are uninhabited and others have a few families living on them, in thatched huts. A few islands are packed with huts and concrete buildings, resembling a village. Not much in the way of provisions is to be found. Most cruising boats are stocked up with groceries and alcohol from Colombia or mainland Panama before they arrive in the San Blas islands, and their tanks are full.

The town of Nargana has a handful of “stores”, where one can find basics like flour, rice, eggs, cornflakes, a small selection of cans, chicken and – depending on your luck – some or little fresh produce. Bread, diesel and gasoline are sold here too. The small settlement of Banedup in the East Lemmon Cays has a few of these items for sale as well. Other than that, cruisers rely on their own stores and the veggie boat, which might come once a week, or not. In the winter time (high season) the arrival of these boats full of produce is more reliable.

Living in the San Blas islands is relatively cheap, especially after spending hundreds of dollars on provisioning elsewhere. All you basically need to obtain here are fresh vegetables and fruit, maybe some chicken, and seafood if you don’t catch it yourself. A $20 bill goes a long way towards survival… But, what exactly can you get in Kuna Yala for 20 dollars?

Here’s a selection:

-          A week’s worth of produce (most veggies sell for $1.50/lb)
-          6-7 medium lobsters
-          10 big crabs
-          3.5 gallons of gasoline
-          3.5 gallons of diesel
-          Propane to fill a 20 pound tank, with $4 change
-          A week’s worth of fish
-          133 Kuna breads, which are tiny
-          A decently made mola (intricately sewn handiwork)
-          Permit to stay 1 month in Kuna Yala
-          5-6 dozens of eggs
-          4-5 bracelets or strings of beads
-          Unlimited amount of drinking water for the boat in one stop
-          60 coconuts on Nlakalubirdup, or 20 elsewhere

Prices usually depend on who you buy things from, what time of the year it is and how well your bargaining skills are. Mark and I have managed to trade stuff for food, but the Kunas always want some money as part of the deal as well. On average, we spend between $120 and $150 a month in Kuna Yala. 

Buying gasoline in Nargana

The settlement of Banedup, East Lemmons