Here we are, rolling back and forth a little bit, in the big
bay of Taiohae (Nuku Hiva), the capital and biggest city of the Marquesas. The
water seems cleaner than in our previous environment and we are anchored off a
small beach. We hope to go for a refreshing swim over there later, and assume –
based on the amount of Sunday swimmers and beach goers – that the waters are
relatively shark-free, despite the rumors. For the first time in a while, we
are not the only boat in the anchorage. As a matter of fact, we count about 20
other sailboats, some of them said to be “residents”. We are ready to
socialize, hang out with old friends (Kril, Iona and Pitufa are here) and meet
some new people.
The beach in Taiohae, seen from Irie
Taiohae bay and "city" ashore
The main reason Mark and I are a bit excited to be here is
because we have high hopes of this place. We haven’t been to a “real” town
since we left the Galapagos, and it has been 9 months already, since we left
Panama City. Our main hopes revolve around convenience and availability of
stuff. We are looking forward to some decent grocery shopping and lots of fresh
produce, finding a good doctor and dentist, going out for a drink with friends,
having dinner in a restaurant again (we have a “mysterious” friend who will
take us out to dinner virtually, and we have some postponed special occasions
to celebrate) and spending heaps of time online to catch up with the world, our
social life, and research. It sounds like we might be here a while and if you
consider the following, you might understand why…
It has been:
-
Over a year since we went clothes shopping
(Belgium and the US, summer of 2012)
-
Three months since we ate a local meal in a restaurant
(Rikitea, Gambier islands)
-
Nine months since we went out for an
“international” (worthwhile) meal (Panama City)
-
Nine months since we managed to buy something
“marine” like to fix a boat issue (Panama City)
-
Seven months since we visited a bar (Isabela,
Galapagos)
-
Six months since I last used a normal flush
toilet (Galapagos restaurant)
-
Seven months since we shopped in a decent
grocery store (Santa Cruz, Galapagos)
-
Nine months since we shopped in a big,
western-style grocery store (Panama City)
-
Nine months since we rode on a bus (Panama City) => there are no buses here either
-
An eternity since we had fast WiFi to do
research => we hope this is available here!
-
One and a half months since we saw a bank and
used the ATM (Atuona, Hiva Oa)
-
Three weeks since we were in an anchorage with
other boats
-
One and a half months since we could – barely –
use Skype to call our parents
-
Three months since we took a warm, pressurized
shower (Gambier) => no plans to do or find that here
-
Many years since I took a warm bath =>
definitely not possible here
-
Seven months since I ate a real ice cream (San
Cristobal, Galapagos)
-
Three months since we docked our dinghy with
ease – no dragging up the beach or using stern anchor or taking tides and local
boats into consideration (Rikitea, Gambier) => Hanavave in Fatu Hiva (2
months ago) was quite easy as well, most of the time
-
Nine months since we stepped foot in an air-conditioned
building (Panama City)
-
Seven months since we bought produce at a decent
vegetable market (San Cristobal, Galapagos)
-
Four months since we last used a washing machine (Gambier) and nine months since we used a washer and dryer (Panama City) => too expensive here
-
Four months since Mark finished his soymilk to
eat breakfast => since then, he’s been on dry granola or bread
Time to enjoy some small pleasures in life! Unless we are
expecting too much, of course… :-)
South coast of Nuku Hiva
The other side of Taiohae Bay
Last week, Mark and I borrowed Axel’s spacious car to visit
friends two hours north of Auckland. For the occasion, the car was turned into
our closet, kitchen, lunch counter and internet café, while we visited boating
friends. Due to a cold front, the weather was very chilly and rainy, but the
company of our fellow cruisers made up for the discomfort. After two nights on
SV Amandla in Gulf Harbor, hanging out with Fabio and Lisa, we continued north
to Whangarei, taking a somewhat scenic road, and stopping a few times along the
way.
It was fantastic to see the SV Iona family again after a year! Cute Leili had grown a bit, Dylan more than a bit. For the next two
nights, we stayed on their cozy boat, while Chris cooked for us and Katie was a
gracious host. We combined some work in the local library (good WiFi), with
being part of their lovely family, and enjoyed the warmth of their home and
personalities. One afternoon, we all drove out to Whangarei Heads for a beach
walk and picnic. The scenery was spectacular and the faint sun very welcome!
On the day we left, back south to appreciate the hospitality
of our friends Fabio and Lisa once more, Mark and I tried to organize our
imminent accommodation and transportation needs for a few hours and had just
enough time left to check out Whangarei Falls. This was an easy and beautiful
detour, so we decided to walk the trail to the Kauri forest, instead of driving
there. Some fresh air was just what we needed and the exercise was very
welcome. Along the boardwalk in the forest, we gazed at the tropical vegetation
– I love those “fern trees” – and the ancient Kauri trees, which are hundreds
of years old. Ah, to be in nature again…
