Every two years, in the month of December, pain arrives in
our shrinking household. In 2008 we lost our dear dog Kali in Puerto Rico,
while at the vet. A malicious and very developed cancer made us put her down
after an unsuccessful operation and the knowledge she would never be healthy
again. In 2010 it was Darwin’s turn, who –unbeknownst to us- was suffering from
internal bleeding as a result of a rare and nasty cancer. We had to put him to
sleep in the USA, right before returning home to Irie. With no dogs left (other
than our toy dog Clarke, who was given to us by UK friend Matt to “replace” our
sweet puppies) this year, something had to happen to Mark or me.
It was Tuesday, December 11th, when the ladder to
board Irie in the boatyard of Shelter Bay marina, slipped away. Mark was
starting to descend when it happened, and instead tumbled seven feet down to
the gravel ground. It was one of those moments we were happy to own a catamaran
instead of an even taller monohull. He fell hard and besides a few bloody
scrape marks and cuts, hurt his left wrist. Initially, he seemed shocked, but
OK, until the evening progressed. The pain became unbearable and we suspected his
wrist was broken. While trying to figure out how to get a cab at night from
remote Shelter Bay to an emergency room in Colon, our yard neighbor – a doctor
– came over to offer medical advice. Upon inspecting Mark’s hand, he made a
diagnosis which required a cast… for at least six weeks; a procedure that would
take place in a western country.
Our plans, dreams and hopes shattered instantaneously. This
would change everything: our time on the dry (which is very expensive, dirty
and uncomfortable), our planned three week vacation in the San Blas, our Panama
Canal transit, Mark’s upcoming one week visit to the States and even our plans
to spend time in the Pacific. We were extremely close to giving up the boat
life all together… We hit rock bottom.
The following morning, on 12-12-12, we took the marina
shuttle into Colon and were dropped off at the emergency room of the Cuatro
Altos hospital. In typical Panamanian style, we were “welcomed” at the check-in
desk by three women doing each other’s nails without looking up. One was the
secretary, one happened to be the nurse and the third proved to be the doctor
on duty. After the nail polish was dry enough, we registered and were helped.
The air conditioning was not working and everybody was fanning themselves. The
nurse did the rudimentary check-ups and Mark disappeared in the “radiation”
zone. A hospital employee took four X-rays of his left hand and then it was
nervously waiting for the results. We were called into the doctor’s office, who
spoke some English, helped by her tablet translator. The X-rays were lit up and
she explained the important verdict: no fractures, “just” a sprained wrist. The
news also lit up our faces! What a relief!
The cleaning lady entered the small room and pointed a fan
at the doctor’s desk. When she turned it on, papers flew all over the place. Saw
that coming a mile away… We received a note with necessary items needed from
the pharmacy on site: stronger painkillers and an immobilizer for Mark’s
injured hand. They had the pills, but no immobilizer. Really? Before we set off
on a hunt for other pharmacies in the area, we paid our ER bill: $95. The
secretary handed us a small receipt and we left. When realizing a more detailed
invoice might be necessary in the future if the problem appeared to be more
serious after a few days, we returned to the desk. The woman was on a little
break and when she returned and found out why we were back, she just grabbed
the printed sheet in front of her and gave it to us.
For the first time in a long while, Mark and I felt somewhat
happier realizing that the situation could have been so much worse. The coming
days and weeks in the boatyard and on the boat would be difficult. It is
impossible to do most jobs we have planned with one hand, but I’m sure we will
manage. I don’t mind being Mark’s left hand for a while, if it means we can get
back in the water and start enjoying our lives again…
