35’ Catamaran “Irie” For Sale

Our Trusty Sailboat and Lovely Floating Home “Irie” is up for Sale

In the spring of 2007, Mark, Kali, Darwin and I were looking for a suitable and affordable catamaran to live on, and sail to the Bahamas with. We found Irie – then called “Big trouble” – in the Annapolis area, Maryland, thanks to our broker turned friend Tommy Smith, and in June she was ours. We immediately moved aboard (we had been living in a tent and out of a car for a few months up to that point), turned the 35’ sailboat into a cruising catamaran and prepared her to leave the area – which happened in October 2007 when we started our trip down the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) to Florida. That was exactly 7 years ago!

Right after all my Green Card procedures were finished, we eventually left the country the end of January 2008 for what would turn into a voyage much more interesting, exciting, and extensive than we ever anticipated. This is how Mark and I work, though, we have a thought, implement it, and “see what happens”, just like when we were going to visit Mexico by camper, and ended up driving all the way to Panama and back. As long as we are enjoying what we are doing and it keeps us entertained, captured and challenged, why stop? So, we reached the Bahamas, and around the first hurricane season, when it was time to make some commitments or to return, we decided to continue on, and never looked back.

The Turks and Caicos, the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico followed. Saddened by the loss of our beloved dog Kali, we entered the “real Caribbean”: the US and British Virgin Islands. Then, we discovered the Eastern Caribbean, where we sailed up and down the island chain for three years, spending the cruising season in St. Maarten/St. Martin to work and the hurricane season in Grenada, to work and “play” and haul Irie out of the water for annual maintenance. In 2009 a big change happened in our lives when Mark and I invented the Wirie, a long range Wifi product for boats and RVs, and turned it into a real venture. Cruising would never be the same anymore with this new responsibility and commitment.

In the winter of 2010, during a stay in the United States for family reasons, our other amazing dog Darwin passed away. Our family was reducing, but the burden of cruising – in combination with running a business and trying to make money to maintain our frugal lifestyle – only increased. In 2012, we decided to take it a bit easier and enjoy the cruising lifestyle again for what it was: we sailed west and spent almost a whole year in the wonderful paradise of the San Blas islands in Panama. Being so close to the Panama Canal and to the “other side”, another big decision had to be made: should we stay in the Caribbean or should we go?  Always in for a new adventure… we went!

Little, but strong and dependable Irie entered the Pacific Ocean and conquered it with flying colors. The sail to the Galapagos Islands was a pleasant experience (to say nothing of the intriguing islands themselves!); the 21-day voyage from there to French Polynesia was a bit more harrowing. But, while other cruising boats broke rigging, ripped sails or lost rudders, Irie arrived unscathed in the Gambier Islands. Thanks to vigilant weather observations and careful anticipation and planning, all the other sail trips in the Pacific have been relatively uneventful and benign. A year and a half later, Mark and I are still enjoying the islands of French Polynesia, a beautiful, interesting and expansive cruising ground…

You can call it “the seven year itch”, or you can call it something else, but living on a small sailboat for over 7 (!) years is a long time. Taking showers in the ocean, being careful with fresh water and electricity, having many boat life related chores turn into a half a day of work, constantly chasing the internet, combining our “professional” lives with living afloat in a remote area, keeping up with the boat fix-it list, being weather dependent for every decision… is tiresome and frustrating at times. Don’t get me wrong: we really LOVE the cruising lifestyle and we still soak up every colorful sunset, snorkel on the reefs, hike in nature, wildlife experience, new place, adventure or culture, or like to just sit still and take in the scenery whether it is the bright starry night or the “out of this world” beautiful anchorage. But, it is time for something different, another kind of adventure, whatever it might be.

So, our Irie is officially on the market and awaiting new owners to have a blast with and on her, and to enjoy, appreciate and love her as much as we do. Until then, we will be savoring our last moments with her in the diverse and wonderful Society Islands – perfect cruising grounds. And, who knows, maybe we will still make it all the way to Fiji next year!

For a full listing, many pictures, and everything you possibly want to know about our 35’ Fountaine Pajot Tobago check out our for sale website www.catamaran-for-sale.com and contact us with any inquiries. Or, if any potential buyer prefers to work through a broker, we have Irie listed with Béatrice of Raiatea Yacht as well: http://www.raiatea-yacht.com/index.php?page=tobago_35

Apataki boatyard last March

From the top of the mast, San Blas islands

Downwind sailing; a pleasure with the spinnaker

 

Hawaiki Nui Va’a Races: Lots of Canoes and Even More Water

Mark and I left our pretty and shallow anchoring spot near motu Aito for three reasons: a change of scenery, supposedly decent WiFi (from an internet service we still had soon to expire credit of) and to do some hikes in Taha’a’s interior. We would return after a few days for the annual canoe races. Once we arrived in Haamene Bay on the east coast of Taha’a, the weather changed for the worst. The rain became more incessant, the already murky bay turned orange/brown and the hiking trails melted into piles of mud. More than a quick walk through town and up a hill was not feasible. The scenery was nothing special and the expected and needed internet was fluky at best. In between rain showers, we lifted anchor and gladly motored the 7 miles back to our – so far – favorite Raiatea anchorage, across from the capital Uturoa.

Every year, the Hawaiki Nui Va’a races take place in the Leeward Islands of the Societies. This year, over 80 va’a (skinny canoes with an outrigger), each with six experienced and mostly professional rowers, left Huahine for the first leg to Raiatea on November 5^th.  It was another rainy day and while keeping an eye on the commotion in the distance – near the closest pass where the group would appear – with binoculars, we hoped for a dry period before the outriggers would reach the finish line. When the troupe of local fishing boats, ferries, catamarans, jetskis, skiffs, any other local craft, and helicopters moved closer to Uturoa, Mark and I braved the weather and jumped in our dinghy to join the fun. Despite the wind, the waves and the rain, we did not want to miss out on the biggest sports event in French Polynesia. Soon, we were part of the immense chaos of zipping boats, massive chop and wake, and the sounds of drumming, cheering voices, revving boat engines, and buzzing news and rescue helicopters.

While our little, almost invisible, dinghy bounced all over the place and drowned in some salty waves, I tried to take some pictures of the event. The movement of the boat and the stubborn rain did not create any impressive photos, but I hope the shots underneath provide a good glimpse and feel of what was going on. A nice surprise awaited us when we were ready to go ashore and find some shelter. Our friends Patrick and Rachel on SV Namaste had picked up a mooring ball on the sidelines of the event and we happily climbed onboard. It was great to see them and to catch up on the last six months. They had sailed all the way to Tonga and back, while we made our emergency visit to the States, explored Tahiti and Moorea and received visitors.

An hour into discovering the couple, a greater reunion took place, when – unexpectedly – Phil, Zoë and their friend Scott showed up on SV Namaste. We had not seen the youngsters since Christmas in Taiohae, Nuku Hiva. It was a good reason to celebrate and soon, the rum went around and the mood of the day was established. We chatted, watched the start of the women’s and junior’s canoe races, went ashore to eat lunch and hang out, and became wetter and muddier, when the rain became a consistent downpour and the paths swampy rivers. In the evening, the three person crew of SV L’Obsession (a 45’ Lagoon catamaran) invited us and Rachel and Patrick over for good times aboard. Finally wearing a set of dry clothes by then, we enjoyed great company, food and drinks until 1am! Unfortunately, on the way back home, we were caught in another nasty squall, which produced more wet clothes and towels to contribute to the growing pile in Irie’s cockpit.

Blue skies again after a very rainy week!

On November 6^th, the race would start from Raiatea and head to Taha’a. The rain had not subsided. When we were ready to brave it again and drop the dinghy, we realized that the start line would be out of reach of our slow mode of transportation, while the starting time was already upon us. We decided to stay home and dry instead. The day after, we were hoping to catch up with the race and join the rowers to Bora Bora with Irie. It would have been a great spectacle with an awesome local party at night, but, when we opened our eyes in the morning, it was pouring yet again and the sky did not look promising. The wind was blowing like crazy, just like the days prior. Around noon, the sun finally and surprisingly reappeared in all her glory and the amazing blue colors of the lagoon blinded us. By then, it was too late for us to get ready and head west, so instead we did laundry and felt a hint of regret not being able to be present during the finishing touches and celebrations of this year’s Hawaiki Nui.

Haamene valley full of palms

View of Haamene bay from the top of the hill

All our plants were swamped by the rain and some died

While it rains, we get work done: a router out of cardboard!

Mark and I reproduced a cardboard router based on the dimensions from the factory, to do some try outs

Haamene Bay in Taha'a after more rain

Chaos at the finish line of the first Hawaiki Nui leg

One of the first va'a to arrive in Raiatea

Passing the finish line

Paddling in sync

A cargo ship entering the commotion near the finish line

Finally rest after a long ocean passage

And a welcome sip of water

Skinny va'a with outrigger

The rowers don't mind the rain!

A last effort to the finish line

Patrick, Mark, Liesbet, Scott, Zoe, and Phil in Namaste's cockpit

The women's (vahini) race

Some of the heavily sponsored va'a onshore

A wet and muddy day!

The evening light casts some color on the busy inner harbor

Soaking wet and ready to head back to our boats

Taking It Slow and Easy on Irie

Something very interesting is happening on Irie these last few days. Whether it is because of the rainy weather or the fact that it is weekend, or that we feel like time is our biggest form of wealth at the moment, or that Mark is basically “waiting” for the final stages of the heart of our new Wirie product – The Wirie^pro – to be completed abroad, I don’t know, but we are taking the concept of R&R (rest and relaxation) very seriously, if not up to the next level! I do feel more inspired to write and do errands in the mornings, while Mark catches up on business as usual, but the afternoons are filled with everything but work or activities. This time of the day, we both retreat to our bunk and “veg”. Mark has been playing a new (to him) video game for hours on end, and I am finally catching up on reading sailing magazines collected from the States and Belgium; partly to see myself in print (vanity, indeed), but also to learn about new places and to get inspired and write more. We are also soaking up information about the area we plan to visit over the coming months, since we literally had no idea what to expect from all the anchorages in this lagoon.

On November 1^st, the rainy season in French Polynesia officially started, on paper and in reality. The sky has been grey ever since and we wonder when we will see the sun again. Maybe it is a little bit too early to despair, but we have heard many stories of excessive rain and explosive mildew growth during cyclone season in the Leeward Islands of the Societies. I guess, if it will really be that bad we will have to find refuge elsewhere. The wind also has picked up, temporarily, but with a vengeance, so our boat batteries are happily full and the fresh water tank is getting there. Now, if only we could find a decent WiFi signal to disappear behind our computers again! It is one of our goals for getting to Haamene Bay in Taha’a, which we think we can reach even in cloudy weather – there is a well-marked channel around the island and into many bays. We will just have to wait until we see its outline again, before moving on…

Flower stands for All Saint's Day (November 1st) in Uturoa

Vegetable market in Uturoa

"Catamaran row" in the Aito anchorage, which - with its 6ft depth - is too shallow for most monohulls

Taha'a - our next destination - on a sunny day in the Aito anchorage

Sharks swimming by the boat (Aito)

Mark enjoying a new video game in bed

Stingray in the water alongside Irie (Aito)