I’m trying to stay positive in our current (for the last 2.5
weeks) situation of uncomfortableness, wetness, moldiness, bounciness,
tiredness, stuckness and unhappiness here in Portobelo. The weather is the
weather (crap) and there is – unfortunately – nowhere else to go near mainland
Panama that could improve our situation. We have sleepless nights, need to keep
a constant look-out for surrounding boats unpredictably moving with current and
lack of wind, and everything is wet
and smelly. So, I will focus on something more interesting and enjoyable for
the moment.
When we returned from the magnificent San Blas islands the
end of October, we stopped at a place called Isla Linton. It is near the shabby
town of Puerto Lindo with no facilities and sporadic bus service to Colon, but
there are a few things to do and see in the area. In the past, we never
explored too much, since we were always on the way to or from somewhere else.
This time, with riots going on in Colon and no way to run much needed errands
(the Panamanian people burned tires and created road blocks, so you couldn’t
get anywhere, buses did not ride for a week and stores were closed), we “surrendered”
to some local activities.
There is a cool dinghy ride towards French run Panamarina
that brings you through a narrow channel under a mangrove canopy. It is a mysterious,
pretty and wonderful experience to weave your way around all the massive roots,
listening for the sounds of birds and nothingness. After doing this trip a few
times, you can heighten the adrenaline by planing (= driving fast and focused)
this flat, constricted and winding “highway”!
Isla Linton itself sports a troop of monkeys. Sometimes they
approach the beach and the dock when hearing an engine. You can go to shore to
observe them or watch them be silly and funny from your safe spot in the
dinghy. They have been known to bite. Once – when the monkeys were hiding – we
went ashore to walk through the brush and jungle and found an amazing, long
trail of leafcutter ants, transporting pieces of leaves to their nest. It is
quite a spectacle to watch these tiny, purposeful creatures do their thing:
crawling back and forth, greeting each other and carrying a – for them - massive
sized piece of greenery.
When the weather is relatively sunny and calm, one can take
the dinghy towards a palm fringed, good-looking island with an interesting reef
in front of it. We anchored the dinghy in a sandy spot and dove in to snorkel
amongst some reef creatures and coral. It is not as nice as in the San Blas
islands, but while being stuck in Linton it is a good distraction from the
daily cruising life.
To me, the most interesting excursion in the area is a trip
to Isla Grande, about a mile to the northeast. In calm seas the ride is not a
problem at all, but when it is choppy a decent engine is recommended so you can
plane there and avoid getting soaked. Isla Grande is popular with local
tourists and houses a few bars, restaurants and hotels. It was dead quiet when
we visited, thanks to it being the low season and the middle of the week. We
followed the only path along the waterfront and turned inland to climb the
hill. The trail is easy, a bit steep and slippery at times, and brings you either
to massive antennas or to an ugly lighthouse (left fork). The door of the
lighthouse is open and after climbing a hundred or so winding little steps, you
reach the highest viewpoint of the island. The location – though a bit scary on
top of a narrow, rusty structure in a third world country – has an amazing view
on a clear day. The circling vultures above add to this exhilarating moment!
Channel through the mangroves
Inhabitants of human-free Isla Linton
Trail of leafcutter ants, all the way up the tree...
Local panga on Isla Grande
View from Isla Grande
Beautiful view from the lighthouse on Isla Grande
View of the bay and the town of Isla Grande
Mark, not totally at ease on the rusty structure
No comments:
Post a Comment