Ode to Friends and Family

Our two and a half months leave of absence from the boat is finished. And, what a great time is has been. Mark and I were really ready to take a break from the primitive life on the water and swap it temporarily for the comforts and luxuries of other people’s houses. We took lavish showers, spent as much time online as we desired and ate scrumptious foods. We rarely cooked, barely had to do dishes and used washing machines to clean our clothes. We were so “out of it”, that once we settled back on Irie, we didn’t remember which side of the bed we used to sleep and wondered what all the buttons were for… The whole trip to the States and Europe was a success thanks to our lovely friends and awesome family!

In the United States, we stayed at Mark’s parents’ place, where we occupied our own little “flat” above their garage, and we visited sister Dru and husband Brian on the extensive and pretty grounds of one of Greenwich’s estates. They all made us feel welcome and kept us entertained.  When I arrived in Belgium, a random encounter with an acquaintance led to a wonderful long weekend in Holland with old Scouts friends and their children. My oma received many visits which brought a massive smile to her face, which in turn made me happy, and my parents harbored me in the room of my childhood. I was taken care of in the same way and didn’t have to do a thing! Sometimes one can really go back in time and enjoy it immensely!

When Mark arrived, our visits started in earnest. We were treated to home cooked meals and superb restaurant meals by friends and family alike. Our “vacation” in Germany, was a German version of the Belgian hospitality we had encountered thus far. Back in Belgium, the splurge continued with delicious food, interesting company and afternoons turning into evenings with complimentary dinners and drinks, and once even with some fun in a homemade water park! With a plunge, I finished a steep ride down a slide, and with a mojito in hand I relaxed in a bubbly Jacuzzi. The sun was even present that day; life was good. Mark savored the renowned Belgian specialty beers, while I was the designated driver. The food made up for it, though, and in the States, he took the wheel.

Our stay “abroad” finished with a fast, last week in the States, where we took hold of our little flat again. Most of the days were spent trying to pack the loads of gear we had obtained and catching up on last minute online chores. Evening dinners were social events turned special with friends and family wishing us well in the unknown future. One of the last nights, we went out for an exquisite sushi dinner, at the expense of The Wirie. It grew into a fun business meeting, without talking about business at all. Who said doing business with family members is a bad thing? Even though these wonderful times “at home” are still fresh in our memory, the daily boat life is engrossing us again. It was a needed and welcome break and we truly feel refreshed and excited about our life style again. Now, it is back to showering in the ocean, doing laundry by hand, being restricted with internet, careful with electricity and fresh water and … making new friends.

Going out for a fantastic four course Chinese lunch with Liesbet's parents.

Lobster as a last dinner with Mark's parents, his brother and sister-in-law.

Introduction to Bavaria

In Germany, there is a special deal when you take the train in the weekend. Schönes Wochenender ticket it is called and it gives up to five people unlimited travel in Germany, on the Saturday or Sunday of your choice, for only 40 euro! It’s a steal, especially when you know that taking the train from Berlin to Munich usually costs over 150 euro. So, our decision was quickly made. The catch? You are only allowed to use regional trains, which is why our journey took nine hours…

Traveling by train is relaxing and fun, even with the many stopovers and changes. Mark and I were lucky no delays took place and we were welcomed to Munich by our friend Sabine. She took us to her spacious, comfortable and worldly decorated apartment, where husband Michael had prepared a tasty dinner. We “fell with our butt in the butter” as the Dutch expression goes, when you get lucky and spoiled! We hadn’t seen our German friends, whom we met and traveled with in Mexico and who visited us in the Bahamas, for four years, so we had a lot to catch up on. Our cruising life and their current overland travels in Africa offered enough story material for weeks, so the nights grew long.

Our first full day in Bavaria was filled with stories and picture gazing during the rainy daytime hours and later in the afternoon, our friends took us to Jachenau, near the border with Austria, where the Alps begin. We were to spend a night in a cozy and typical Bavarian B&B, starting with a very hearty dinner: fried onions, fries, slabs of pork meat and a massive dollop of butter on top. The setting was very picturesque and the enjoyable scene was repeated during breakfast the following day. Bellies full of dark and sour German bread, pretzels, eggs and lunch meat we were ready for a long day of hiking, to burn off all those calories.

It was a grey day, so the views had a cloudy lining, but the cool mountain temperature was perfect for hiking. For about three hours, we climbed one of the nearby peaks, where we had a simple, but delicious lunch. Picnicking in nature with only the presence of cows and each other; life was good! The walk back down took a couple of hours as well, since we were all suffering from one or another ailment. For me, it was my right knee, which was in excruciating pain with each descending step. Playing sports is healthy one says, but years after, the body suffers… Getting old(er) is no joke!

Regardless, we all had a nice time in the mountains and after the scenic route past a stunningly beautiful lake, we arrived back in Munich and were ready for more eating, drinking and sightseeing. Michael showed us around the touristy center of town, where we spoiled ourselves with a sushi lunch. In the afternoon, Mark and I walked back home past a few other sights to finish the day on the sunny balcony with yet another home cooked meal and delicious wine. 

Our last day in Munich was spent in peace for Mark and with Sabine for me. The girls walked along the Isar River, gossiped about all things important and Sabine, the color consultant,  figured out “my colors” (I am a summer – winter mix) after lunch. In the evening, the four of us biked to the massive beer garden in Englischer Garten, to conclude our stay the Bavarian way: with German sausages and liter draught beers!

Day hike in the Alps

Michael, Sabine, Mark and I made it (sweaty) to the top!

The pretty Walchensee lake

Historical buildings in Munich

The beer garden in Englischer Garten: Prost!

Five Days Berlin

Not much sailing, tropical adventures or cruising stories on this blog, the last couple of months! Mark and I are still on our little break from the boat, but our weeks in the Western world are rapidly coming to an end. The highlight of our vacation in Europe was a 10-day visit to Germany by train. We planned five days in Berlin and five in Munich and had a great time with beautiful weather.

When you sail all over the place, you meet a lot of wonderful people. Jens is one of those people. He is from Germany and lives in… Berlin. He and his girlfriend Steffi made us feel at home in their apartment in the hip and exciting Prenzlauer Berg district. With our hosts at work, Mark and I leisurely explored the different areas of this fascinating city during the day (with a guaranteed late start – it was our holiday after all!) and hung out with our friends at night.

A walk through Prenzlauer Berg revealed a bombed and overgrown Jewish cemetery, some historic structures, cool playgrounds, a lot of renovated GDR buildings, artsy bars and restaurants, the water tower with its peaceful park on the highest hill and the best currywurst in town. We continued towards Mitte, with a quick stroll and lunch in Scheunenviertel, where outdoor establishments, courtyards and shops abound. A short metro ride to Friedrichshain is the way to reach one of Berlin’s main attractions, the East Side Gallery. This “art exhibition” consists of the longest remaining section of the Berlin wall, painted by artists from all over the world, when the reunification took place in 1989. We strolled along the 1 km stretch of wall, while gazing at the interesting works of the artists. On the other side, in the “no man’s land of the past” the Spree River offers a peaceful walking alternative and multiple beach bars draw the crowds in sunny weather. The old Oberbraumbrücke makes for a pretty picture.

On our second day, Mark and I walked quite a bit as well. Berlin is very spread out. Fifteen minutes from “our” apartment lays busy Alexanderplatz with the tall TV tower. A beautiful church and square form the center of this area, bordered on one side by the red city hall. Continuing on, we reached the wide boulevard of Unter den Linden. Here, most of Berlin’s historic sights are to be seen. On Museuminsel, several charming buildings house as many museums, attracting thousands of tourists every day. Further on, we passed Humboldt University, where Albert Einstein used to teach, and Bebel Platz, where the infamous Nazi book burning took place in 1933. The Brandenburger Tor, built in 1788, majestically stands at the “end” of the road. From here, one can walk towards the massive Reichstag building for a great view of the city from the glass dome or expansive terrace (reservations required), or play hide and seek in the simple, but impressing Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Holocaust Memorial). The Visitor Center underneath gives a gripping overview of the Jewish life during Hitler’s reign.

Checkpoint Charlie was a famous border crossing between East and West Berlin. Only an old sign remains from those days, but Germans in costume, sand bags and other paraphernalia try to bring back the restrictive atmosphere, while cars buzz by. A panel with information explains the people’s fate during the years of the wall. From the balcony of a fashionable McDonalds, one can observe the hectic life of tourists and locals at the checkpoint during these modern times. In another part of town, the Jewish Museum is housed in an interestingly designed building, with narrow strips as windows. Since it was our last night with Jens and Steffi, we went out for a delicious Vietnamese dinner.

Mark and I took bus 100 (a normal bus driving a scenic route) towards Kurfürstendamm, where we stayed in a hotel for the last two days. The massive shopping street doesn’t do much for us, but the nearby Tiergarden is an oasis of greenery and peace. Before we relaxed there for the afternoon, we took the metro to the massive KaDeWe department store, where the 6^th floor is worth visiting. Any kind of exotic, fancy, exclusive or international food (and drink) can be found, tasted, looked at or bought here! Potsdamer Platz, with its modern buildings and skyscrapers was not worth the detour.

Since Mark’s back was bothering him from all the walking throughout the city, he stayed “home” on our last day in Berlin. I went to Schloss Charlottenburg, where I explored the beautiful and big gardens and park instead of indulging myself in the palace life of the 1700s. On the way back, I quickly paid a visit to the Gedächtniskirche, where the light through the deep blue stained glass gives an overwhelming impression. As I walked towards the hotel, a local rock band, playing in the midst of traffic and (window)shoppers to promote their CD indicated Berlin’s inventive and creative spirit once more. But, a last dinner with friends in the old-fashioned and established Henne restaurant proved that old traditions and the simple pleasures of fried halve chickens and big beers are still popular as well!

The rotes rathaus (red city hall) on Alexander Platz

Mark and I in front of the Brandenburger Tor

Holocaust Memorial

View of Checkpoint Charlie from McDonalds

Going out for a Vietnamese dinner with Jens and Steffi

Peaceful and relaxing Tiergarten

Schloss Charlottenburg

Surrounded by Children

As a couple being in a long, healthy relationship – married or not – the all-important question about kids will eventually pop up. Do we want one/them or not? Living the lifestyle we live, Mark and I have postponed that question, or more importantly the answer, for years. But, the clock is ticking… I will turn 37 this year and we feel it will have to be decided soon. I have come as far as wanting to have the kid(s) before I am 40 or not at all. To us, it is the most important and difficult question of our lives and coming to a conclusion is not easy. Instead of “just” answering with yes or no, like land-based people with a steady income, job, house, family, school system, health care arrangements and routine, we have to (re)consider our whole gypsy lifestyle, finances, plans (?), living quarters, location, amenities, hygiene, and more. While mulling everything over and spending time in Belgium, we are surrounded with plenty of little ones to be inspired!

I was only in Belgium for a few days, when I found out about the “SIS-camp”, a long weekend old friends and Scouts leaders organized to spend time with their families and with each other. For me, it was the perfect time to reconnect with these great men and women and to meet their – many – kids. The weekend was fun-filled with activities, relaxation in the sun (yes, back then there was sun) and exchanging life stories. I got to play with kids of all ages, hear “different” visions about having and raising kids (nobody could live without them anymore or regrets having them) and find out whether there is a mother figure hiding inside.

The family Collaert is small. My only brother has one daughter and then it is on to cousins to hang out with kids. It is important to me to spend some time with my only niece Lena. I first saw her in 2009 when she was nine months old, then again when she was 1.5 years old and this time, she is three and a half. She is growing up fast and all I can do every year is send her a birthday card, which in itself is hard enough to do from countries like Panama, where random mail boxes are non-existent. After her shyness during our first encounter, we are best friends now and each time she visits her oma and opa, aunt Liesbet gets to play with her!

Last weekend, Mark arrived and both of us visited my good friend Rosy and her husband Peter. It has been a tradition to spend the whole weekend with them, each time we visit Belgium. This time, there was a big difference: their eight month old daughter Yanou. Like many friends before them, they “gave in” and decided to have a baby. They are travelers by heart and planned to not change their lifestyle too much. Being at their place for a couple of days, Mark and I experienced life with a baby, just as it is. Yes, husband and wife still spend quality time together and yes, they go on excursions with the whole family, but … everything takes much longer and life has changed enormously, with different routines and a whole bunch of extra responsibilities and less time for oneself. The weekend was great and interesting, but whether we want kids ourselves has to be seen in the (near) future!

 

Vacation at Home

Time flies when you’re having fun and that’s my excuse for not writing a blog in such a long time. Mark and I have left the San Blas islands almost four weeks ago! Finding an arrangement for Irie was quite the challenge after planning (and reserving) everything very carefully and months ahead of time, but I’ll leave that ordeal for another time. We hope she is safe on her mooring ball. Unfortunately, we have no way of knowing, since communication seems to be a problem. If anybody is around to take a quick look at her mooring lines, we would appreciate it…

To get from the middle of Kuna Yala to Panama’s capital took a while and required careful planning as well. We spent the night before leaving the country in a homey B&B to be on the safe side. You never know around here and you have to account for anything. Transportation to Panama City included a 40 minute boat ride with a lancha and a 3.5 hour trip by jeep. To acclimatize for the Westernized time to come, Mark and I visited the Albrook Mall – easily the biggest shopping mall we have ever seen. Just strolling the main aisle on the lower level took hours.

Our frustration with the problematic internet situation and our decreasing tolerance for a hot and humid climate, made us leave for the United States two weeks earlier than planned. Mark and I were both ready for a break from the tropics and the boat life, after living aboard 1.5 years non-stop. Everybody needs a little vacation once in a while, even we do! :-) This decision also meant that I was able to be with Mark’s family and friends during this leg, instead of spending just 12 hours in the airport on my way to Belgium. We stayed at Mark’s parents’ place, where we caught up on some of the tasks we were unable to do for months. We ordered boat parts and other goods, went shopping in real stores, researched stuff (hurray for working internet!!!) and ate fast food (and healthy home cooked meals as well). We also spent a fun filled weekend with Mark’s best friends and joined Mark’s sister and her husband in Connecticut for a handful of days.

When it was time for me to fly to Belgium, I was ready for the change in culture, language, company, familiar environment, “long lost” friends and activities. I brought the sun with me, as they say in Belgium and after months of crappy weather here, the temperatures turned pleasant. Of course, it started to rain while I write this. I am quite content with the dry and crisp air, the pressurized showers, the space around me and the happy summer vibes. Belgium is awesome in the summer. Of course, it is always great to be the subject of attention after people haven’t seen you for ages! I can’t believe I have been back for almost two weeks. Every day, there is something nice or special to do, see, experience or eat! Or to take care of. Next week – on Friday the 13^th – Mark will join me and then, our vacation can start in earnest.

Boston from the air.

Lunch in the Boston Museum of Fine Arts with Mark's parents Carol and Stan, and niece Jo.

Family dinner at Tim and Kristen's place.

Typical American BBQ - with a buffet of yummy food and good friends - on a sunny day.

Ryan mans and masters the grill, while the rest of us relax - and trust him.

Scott and Lisa's new car has a lot of "specials" (gadgets?).

Enjoying the lovely weather on the property Dru and Brian maintain in Connecticut. Could we live like this?

Tasty and healthy dinner with Mark's sister Dru and Brian.