Showing posts with label trip. Show all posts
Showing posts with label trip. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

A Break Away from Irie and the Sailing Life


About two weeks ago, Mark and I left the pretty reef anchorage in Moorea, to move Irie into Marina Vaiare, on the same side of the island. As always on boats, it was a tradeoff: we received unlimited water, pressurized showers and easy shore access in return for non-stop sweating, very high temperatures and lack of energy. The sun was beating on us and our boat, the most productive time of the day – to do work, run errands or achieve anything – was from 6am until 8am, and we couldn’t wait until the sun disappeared behind the mountains and the temperature became bearable again. Luckily, the feared mosquitoes at that time of the day were not too bad. We managed to clean and fix Irie up splendidly. And, our boat now lays perfectly flat in a well-protected, safe and affordable harbor, quite the difference with last year’s ordeal and disaster in Tahiti’s Taina Marina!

On April 7th, Mark and I took the ferry to Tahiti, where we met the crews of SV Kril and SV Yum Yum for a few hours. It was great to catch up with them, after many months, and in Kril’s case over a year! In the evening, we jumped on an Air New Zealand plane and – after about 5 hours – arrived in Auckland, where it was already 9:30 pm on April 8th. It does feel weird to have crossed the date line and communicate with our friends, family and most customers back in time!

The trip and arrival into the country went as smooth as could be, and our old time friend Axel (from SV Gudrun, but now living on land) picked us up at the airport and introduced us to the city’s Asian flair by treating us to some yummy dumplings. All our senses were in overdrive and we truly appreciated the comfortable and luxurious hotel room he put us in. Axel is awesome, by the way! :-)

Our first days in New Zealand were filled with friend visits, locating some gear needed during our stay, reading up on tourist info, researching our options to stay and move about during this visit, exploring Auckland a bit, and mostly acclimatizing. The city was truly a sensory overload and an incredible contrast with our lives in French Polynesia’s remote islands – stores with fancy gear everywhere, affordable eateries, constant traffic driving on the left side of the road, bus stops with accurate digital scheduling information and low fares, fast pacing pedestrians and people in suits, sky scrapers with mirror windows, and a chilly climate we can breathe in.

After a few days in a hotel room the size of two Iries, with a hot shower, comfortable king sized bed, our own fridge, kitchenette, and washing machine, decent internet and room for both of us to use our computers comfortably, it was time to move back to… a boat! Using Axel’s car, we are now visiting our friends Fabio and Lisa on SV Amadla and Chris, Katie, Dylan and Leili on SV Iona in the North Island. Catching up with cruising friends who we haven’t seen in a long time, is exactly what we need, and we are enjoying every bit of these fabulous social times. Soon, we need to head down to the South Island, though, because – unlike in the northern hemisphere – winter is upon us and we only have so many cold weather clothes!

Mark installing new hinges on our hatches - now they stay open without dog toys!

Getting water during a dry spell has never been so easy!

Irie in Vaiare Marina

On one side of the marina: Tahiti

On the other side: Moorea's dramatic interior

Meeting with Ursula and Michael (SY Kril) in Papeete, Tahiti

Axel meeting (and bringing) us in the airport of Auckland, New Zealand


Meet Arno, the hit of the household!

Mark and Arno are getting along splendidly

Old Kindergarten in Myers Park, Auckland

Dinner with Axel, Liz and Arno

Going to the grocery store - mirrors everywhere!

A big Asian influence prevails in Auckland

Lisa taking a photo in one of the fish markets

Auckland's skyline, seen from the big downtown marina

The Sky Tower is visible from "everywhere"

The origin for its name: Silo Park

Retro sailboats in Silo Park marina

Hungry fowl in Shakespear Park, Gulf Harbor

A female peacock is called a peahen

View of the bay from Gulf Harbor marina

Delicious pancake brunch with Fabio and Lisa on SV Amandla

Original picture frame in Shakespear Park - the rainbow is a bonus. Yes, it is frrrrreaking cold!

 
Pretty bay in Shakespear Park

Saturday, March 1, 2014

Trip Marquesas - Tuamotus: Pictures


Pod of dolphins showing us the way to the Tuamotus



Bye, bye Ua Pou and Marquesas



A winged hitchhiker



And in the morning, the boobie is still there!



One of many squalls



Not such a great way to start the night shift: surrounded by squalls



Pretty bad rainstorm



Day 4: becalmed!



With less than 5 knots of wind, we have to fly the spinnaker at night to keep moving (at 2-3 knots)



Passing our first atoll ever



Last sunrise before arriving at Apataki
 

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Bye Bye Taiohae and Nuku Hiva


At last, we managed to pull ourselves loose – quite literally since the anchor was buried well after the last 1.5 months – from Taiohae, Nuku Hiva’s capital. It’s not that we didn’t want to leave earlier (believe me, we did!), it’s that we still needed to do things to allow our departure. Like scraping and cleaning Irie’s bottom for three days and getting nauseous while doing so. What a dirty mess that was; the green beards flowing and sticking with the boat bouncing up and down, the barnacles being stubborn to let go of their hold. We also had to buy some more vegetables, probably the last ones for a while, and continue some online duties.

When we were ready to leave, it rained. All day and night. Just like the weeks prior. The following day, Nuku Hiva entrapped in clouds, a sight we were used to; the sky looked bluer off shore. The wind predictions were on the high side, but we would put two reefs in and let the east winds push us to our destination. The reduced sails did their job, but the wind came from the southeast instead, so there we had to go again… upwind! It was a wet and quite boisterous ride, Irie flying and jumping along at 6-7 knots. We reached Ua Pou, 27 miles south of Nuku Hiva, fast and in time for lunch, and hoped for some rain to clean the decks. This is our sixth and last Marquesan island before we continue on.

As seems to be customary in this archipelago, Hakahau is another choppy harbor with inconvenient shore access. Once again, we are living on a hobby horse, attached to two anchors to limit swinging room (with the gusty winds we are always worried to hit our neighbors) and to be faced into the swell. We are bouncing up and down, being pushed back and forth between the two rodes. Once again, it takes us a while to try some different configurations to leave the dinghy safely for our excursions onshore. The people are friendly, the church yard has pamplemousse and breadfruit, the locals practice rowing in their outriggers every day and we have discovered the biggest, most modern store of all of the Marquesas. Now the reports of stocking up in Ua Pou before heading to the Tuamotus make sense! It is exactly what we plan to do, after obtaining butane (a half a day’s event), focusing on more work stuff and checking out the view from the top of a hill.


Arriving in Ua Pou


Hakahau anchorage


Daily rowing practice


Massive breadfruit tree and lime trees (in the back) near the village cemetery

Saturday, March 9, 2013

Panama to Galapagos Passage - Picture Blog


Sailing with the jib and the main


The first (windy) nights were relatively cold


Mark using the sat phone to send a daily position report to this blog
 



Too close for comfort? This giant passed within one mile of Irie, but we knew this thanks to AIS! It was the only ship we saw in a week


Preventing chafe to the preventer line with a cloth taped to the shroud


One of the sunsets at sea


Red skies at night, sailor's delight!


Listening to the 9am Pan-Pacific Net on our SSB receiver



After two windy days, the seas are getting bigger...


Following seas create an amusement park ride for Irie and her crew. Fun!


Surfing the waves at over 10 knots! We peaked at 13.6 knots one night. The true wind speed is over 30 knots.


 The deep blue water of the Pacific Ocean


Squall ahead... Luckily, it stayed ahead.


Winged hitchhiker number 1


Winged hitchhiker number 2


 Motoring into the sunset in flat calm seas!


The equator; from the north hemisphere into the south...


That's the equator, right there. We just crossed it! :-)


Equator party with Belgian truffles, rum for Mark and Neptune, and coke for me



Mark and Liesbet on the equator - March 6th, 2013, 23:26


Sailing with our spinnaker - mainsail combo


No luck fishing...


Sunrise on the last day of the passage


Irie lunch on the last day of the passage


There are the Galapagos Islands!


San Cristobal, Galapagos


Hoisting the appropriate flags before arrival: the Ecuadorian flag and the Q-flag (yellow flag)


Approaching San Cristobal and Wreck Bay

To read the three stories about our passage, look further down these pages.